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  #21  
Old 03-21-2010, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by vangill
when standing from the back of the bike pull the little vaccum hose thats on the left side of the fpr and if its wet-the fpr is bad. if its dry your fpr is ok. you can also keep the vaccuum line off and turn your key so the pump primes, if any gas comes out of the fpr on that left side its bad.

thats the test that ive been told to do. hopefully it helps
Thanks vangill...

checked it just like you said and apparently it's not my FPR. All was dry coming out of that left side......I guess it's something electrical/charging......I still haven't done the reg/rect test ars1986 sent....I did try the first test, connecting the multimeter to the battery and battery cables....multimeter didn't read anything....not sure what that means....it's a whole new ballgame testing the reg/rect. I'm not that savvy when it comes to testing the wires and all...but guess I willl give it a whirl since it's not my FPR.....please feel free to pass on anything else guys...it's much appreciated....
 
  #22  
Old 03-21-2010, 05:36 PM
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im not going to read threw all 3 pages but have you tried turning up the idel yet?
 
  #23  
Old 03-21-2010, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by purpleslug
im not going to read threw all 3 pages but have you tried turning up the idel yet?
Yes, I tried the idle from the very beginning. Everytime I turn the *** to adjust it....it just keeps turning and turning...the idle doesn't change at all. Not sure why that is either....it idles fine until it has been running for about 5-10 mins....it gets slower and slower....the lights start dimming and brightening with the idle the longer it runs until eventually it cuts out.

So far I know it's not the FPR by the test vangill posted, just got back from getting the battery tested at advance...it's fine too. I have the rectifier/regulator unplugged and have tested it to the best of my ability with no conclusions....I really don't think I'm putting the pos and neg probes on it correctly when I test the 3 yellow wires....anybody got any advice on the proper way to do that? My multimeter knowledge is limited unfortunately...

It's getting very close to just loading it up and taking it to the dealership for a diagnostic...I am almost out of ideas.
 
  #24  
Old 03-21-2010, 07:09 PM
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have you put a new battery in it yet? i apologize if i missed where you said you had, i just ask bc my bike did the EXACT same thing, it would idle fine then get slower and die. my battery was only like a year old but it had sat so long with the previous owner without a charge that it just wouldnt hold a charge. a new battery fixed it completely.

if you hadnt done that try it. i bet it will work, i thought my r/r was blown too but it was fine.
 
  #25  
Old 03-22-2010, 08:43 AM
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it really does sound like you have an electrical issue if your lights are dimming in and out, but as for the idle **** not doing anything you might want to check and see that you did not back it all the way out on an accident.

these bike, well at least mine idles around 3k till it warms up. maybe your **** is all the way out and after the bike warms up it is shutting off on you?

i would change the oil when you get the plug in, switch out your plugs and buy a new battery, and see if it fixes it, if it doesn't take the battery back to the store. just when you install it be very careful so when you take it back it does not look like you did. HA HA HA

without more information on the problem i do not know what i can suggest, it is always easier when you are standing in front of the bike.
 
  #26  
Old 03-22-2010, 01:21 PM
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Ok guys...

I went out this afternoon and decided to take the battery out of my 04 RR and put it in the F4i....Bike ran decent and stayed running longer this time with the RR battery....I stood there and let it run watching the rpms and the temp gauge.....it was idling around 1500 rpms while idling and I watched the temp gauge get hotter as it moved from 155 up to about 205-207 and then it finally cut off on its own. I started thinking about how gassy the oil was smelling and thought maybe the oil not having its usual thickness might be causing it to run hot and like someone posted on here it finally short the bike out because of this.....then I noticed the fan never came on the whole time it was hot...shouldn't it have kicked on?

Either way I think I have just decided to go ahead and call the dealership tomorrow and get an appointment to take it in and have them look at it.....I'm no bike mechanic, but I have paid attention to you guys and have listened and watched friends and that's all the know how I have as far as a bike goes....

So I'm stuck on this....I'm afraid there might be more than one problem going on here. I have a good friend who works on them and I have considered having him come and look at it....he thinks it's the stator and said he could put one on for 60 bucks....guess I will figure it out today sometime and make a decision between him and the dealership....

Just want to thank you guys for all your suggestions and advice...it's appreciated a lot!
 
  #27  
Old 03-22-2010, 03:28 PM
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Has anyone had any experience with the dealership quoting a significantly lower price when you bring in the bike with the plastics off? Call the dealership and see what price you will be looking at if you bring in the bike with and without the plastics...

The less time they spend removing and reinstalling plastics, the less of a bill for labor. I dunno if that's true with all dealerships but can't hurt to ask I suppose...
 
  #28  
Old 03-22-2010, 04:13 PM
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The fan does not kick on till about 225. when i am riding my bike it gets around 185 when i am moving. but with stop and go traffic my fan comes on all the time. i have seen my temp gauge as high as 233 one time. i should probably change my coolant, but i am too lazy.

i think some one before mentioned they had the same problem and it was the thermostat switch, if that is your problem you might be in luck.

sometimes when i do not get the help i am looking for here, i go to stuntlife.com there are some really smart guys over there. they know the bikes from top to bottom because they are always rebuilding them after they wreck. if one of them have ever experienced this before they will help you.
 
  #29  
Old 07-02-2010, 10:51 PM
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has anyone had a problem with it cutting out in low third gear around 5k rpm? i have had this problem since i got the bike from a friend, i went and payed the money to have the carbs cleaned and plugs changed and its still doing it, the airfilter is new as well...itll idle just fine and rev up just fine in neutral but i guess under a load it just cuts out and wont do over 55 in third gear, have to feather the throttle back and forth just to keep up to speed.....any help would be great...thanks!
 
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