Hi everyone, hoping someone might be able to help me out. I have an '04 F4i (non CA model) and recently put on a carbon Yoshi RS-3 slip on. I just got a Power Commander 6 and K&N air filter and looked at the available maps for download on Dynojet's website. They have maps for a full exhaust and for slip-on but I noticed that the slip-on map is designed for a stock air filter. Does anyone have a map that includes a K&N? I'm assuming performance will suffer if I just go ahead and run this map with my aftermarket filter so I was just gonna hold off for now on installing it. Any advice towards this is appreciated, I've never messed with a Power Commander or tuning before. Thanks!!

 

To be honest, I would go with what you have as I'm pretty sure that you will not notice the difference.
Ideally you need to get it tuned on a rolling road to make the map specific to your bike.

 

As in, don't install the PC6 and filter or run the PC6 and stock filter or run the map for slip-on + stock filter but with the K&N? I didn't actually end up installing any of that yesterday as it took me H O U R S to do my front and rear indicators. Rears were a cinch but my god, the fronts were a nightmare lol. I refused to solder/splice so I ended up figuring out out how to depin connectors, made my own depinner with an old screwdriver and dremel and got it all set up that way, which I'm stoked on.

 

Sorry for the confusion, Install with the closest map you can get and go with it. The main benefit with a PC on these bikes is smoothing out the map around 4-6k which produces a noticeable flat spot due to the emissions regs, at the top end you will be lucky to get 3-5 bhp.
Mr Honda did a really good job with the tune of these engines.

 

Well done for that, keep as stock as you can, I completely agree with that approach.
A bit late for you now, but you can get patch cables with the correct connectors on which plug into existing wiring.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124977398...Bk9SR5zX3JjXYw

 

Slipon + filtre won't make that much of difference, only full-exhaust would.

Factory bike is programmed super-rich under WOT, typically have to remove tonne of petrol to arrive at best-power 13.5:1 AFR. Generic maps downloaded off internet will only give you about 20-25% of gains possible for any particular configuration. This is due to every single bike being different, even brand-new off showroom floor. They'll have different production tolerances, different break-in process, different wear & tear by time you get it. Only way maximise gains for any combo of upgrades you do is to dyno-tune it after every upgrade. You'll easily get 3-4x power-increase over those downloaded generic maps. Even more if you add ignition-advance for higher-octane petrol. Which will actually be even more than any bolt-ons and fueling adjustments.

 

I ended up throwing on the K&N and using Dynojet's stock filter + slip-on map, boy was it worth it. Throttle response and delivery feels so much better, bike just feels smoother all around. A buddy of mine who races CVMA gave me the name of a shop that can dyno tune this thing, was thinking of taking it over to them soon.

 

I received this bike with 6,800 miles, bone stock. It's my blank template to work with/mod and while I have upgrades in mind, I want the ability to return this thing to fully stock in the future. I did a CW fender eliminator kit recently but rather than dremel the OEM fender, I bought a used one off ebay to hack and just transferred my lock mechanism.

 

I've never heard of an ignition-advance mod, I'll have to look into this!

 

Ignition-advance is where biggest gains come from. Unfortunately have to get Itnition Module for PC. At that point, cheaper to just get aftermarket EFI system like Microsquirt, MoTeC, Electromotive TEC, etc. Also gives you much finer control over settings