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Oil weight question???

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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 02:45 AM
  #21  
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You got a good point there. It's kind of interesting in that some Walmarts seem to always be sold out of it, while others always have plenty in stock.

BTW Hangfire, seeing as you're into Austrian polymer frames you might enjoy this article: LINK ...you've probably seen it already.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 11:37 AM
  #22  
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not all walmart carry Rotella. certain Autozone in my area will carry it too. Warmart - $11 for 15w-40 and $19 5w-40 Synthetic. Autozone is only $1-2 more. If you are at walmart and you want to pickup the oil filter, it's 6607 or something Walmart brand; it's the same for Fram but lots of people talk smack on them.. so i tend to stay away. Else you can look up 2002 Civic 2.0L for the filter.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 04:33 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by RojerLockless
DO NOT USE REGULAR CAR OIL.

use motorcycle oil. The reason being is that your clutch is also run with the same oil as your bike motor and the oil you buy is designed to do that. If you get car oil it will not be good for your clutch.

also 10w-40 is what is recommended in the manual but I run 20w-50 since it's so hot in Houston.


car oil and bike oil are essentially the exact same thing. oil. Aside from marketing ploys, the only real difference is that some bike oils are formulated with additives to increase viscosity sheer resistence. as long as it meets or exheeds the lettered grade SAE requirements then it will work just fine. the only time there would be any surprises is if you use a brand that contains an exorbitant amount of friction modifiers which is unlikely that you will find at a standard auto place. Also, there are wet-clutch applications that use regular "car" oil.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 05:44 AM
  #25  
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i might have to try that rotella u guys are using. I used to just buy factory honda oil as it was only 10 bucks a gallon at my local honda shop. however, they decided that was too cheap and raised the price to 19 bucks a gallon a couple of months ago.

so 5w40 rotella t diesel oil?
 
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 05:45 AM
  #26  
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and that link to the glock test made me shiver. i couldnt imagine doing that to my 23...its my baby...
 
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 05:50 PM
  #27  
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Okay,

I went to Walmart and they did not have the Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 in stock (it was $19.00), but they did have the Shell Rotella T 15W-40 (regular for $10.90) and Mobil One Delvac 15W-40 (for $11.50). Would either of the other two 15W-40 petrolium oils be good or would it be better to just use the 5W-40 synthetic.

I currently used the Honda pro oil and I have 5 bottles of Castrol 4T 4 Stroke oil (for the next two oil changes because they were $2.62/qt) and am insterested in having a good oil to be protective for the hot summer days. I will probably do my next oil change sometime at the beginning of June and then again for the winter storage.

I've read the articles posted on here, but they mostly rave about the synthetic oil, so I would like to know more about the petrolium oils (or more in detail).

Thanks for the help.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 07:18 PM
  #28  
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Couldn't tell ya what ya should use, thats why I posted the link. But I can tell ya that changing your oil BEFORE winter storage is a waste. You should wait till AFTER winter storage, the molecules in the oil break down naturally over time hence the 3 month 3000 miles rule (for cages). So after sitting for a few months (storage) will allow the oil to deteriorate and its lubricating properties will not be the same as a fresh oil change.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2009 | 09:15 AM
  #29  
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Also, if you go to synthetic, what will happen if you go back to regular oil? Or should you never go back to regular oil?

Thanks.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2009 | 12:29 PM
  #30  
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But I can tell ya that changing your oil BEFORE winter storage is a waste. You should wait till AFTER winter storage, the molecules in the oil break down naturally over time hence the 3 month 3000 miles rule (for cages). So after sitting for a few months (storage) will allow the oil to deteriorate and its lubricating properties will not be the same as a fresh oil change.
Hey skoob, the reason people change it prior to storage is so you don't have dirty contaminated oil (combustion by-products) sitting in your crank over a long period of time. There's numerous articles stating that dirty stagnant oil becomes acidic/corrossive, thus promoting gasket and seal deterioration. If you want to be thrifty about it, you could just buy cheap generic supermarket oil for storage, then once you're ready to ride again, put the good stuff in. Another option would be to put a synthetic in, which won't degrade as quickly as a mineral oil.
 
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