Thanks for posting some info on how to test.

After I posted above, I looked in the manual and I saw that the two probes was connecting to what was the clutch switch. The manual also states the same test. So, I went and tested the switch and my voltmeter displayed a 1 when I tested for continuity with the lever squeezed and unsqueezed, bike on and off. I took the switch out and connected the voltmeter and it went to 0 when I put the probes on it.

Does this mean that the clutch switch is bad? If this does mean that the clutch switch is bad, am I able to still switch gears like I can with a bad clutch switch? (basically, can you switch gears with a bad clutch switch--because I can still switch gears). I did however, try to switch gears with the clutch switch disconnected and it seemed like I was trying to switch gears with no clutch based on the engine noise.

Also, I confirmed that when I put the bike in gear, and put the kickstand down, it does kill the engine, so the kickstand is working normally. (however, I am not sure if it could still be malfunctioning--preventing my from staring the engine while in gear with the kickstand up).

Thanks.

 

The clutch switch is an electrical connection, and has no affect on the act of changing gears, thats a mechanical connection. ie the lever is pulled, the clutch cable moves and it engages the clutch physically not electronically. The switch is a safety device that allows an electrical current to flow through it (the switch) when the lever is pulled. To bypass it just take a piece of wire and hook it up to both connectors (on the wires not on the switch). If everything works like its supposed to after the "jumper" is put on, then your switch is shot. I wouldn't suggest riding with the jumper hooked up, I dont think it will hurt anything, but I'm suggesting NOT to ride like that. Honda puts saftety crap on these things for a reason.

 

I'm not saying this is your issue because it could be anything but I had similiar problems and it ended up being my clutch switch.

 

either your clutch switch is bad, or the 2 wires that go into it were not properly connected

the manual should tell you whether your test results mean that the switch is faulty, but it sounds like it is to me since it had infinite resistance when the lever was in and out

 

My F4i does this too, has done it ever since I tore it down to the frame and had it powder coated and then put it back together. It's annoying

 

Just take it to the dealer and get it fixed. I don't think they charged me very much to fix it. Less than $80 if I recall.

 

Thanks for the additional responses. Is/will there be a problem with jumping the wire (I won't leave it in, I just want to test it)? I know that this is an amateur questions, but I just don't want anything else to go wrong. I can/will jump the wire after I purchase some of the wire crimp connectors (just like the end of the switch is) unless I can just tie some wire to each connector. I owned a Toyota Camry before and whenever I did something to test electrical stuff, something else went wrong lol. Thank goodness I don't have that car anymore.

But I just want to play it safe. I contacted the local dealer and they have the switch for 17.00 and I may just buy it and use it to test my problem. I would like to just see first before I buy anything like that, so as long as I won't have any problems jumping the connection, then I will just do that.

Thanks.

 

That is a lot considering if it is only the switch. The switch costs less than $20.00 and all you need is a flat-head screw driver to remove the screw and the switch just slides out.

Put the switch back in and rescrew in the screw and plug in the wires. Literally this can be a 5 minuted repair (if not less).

 

The wires were fully inserted, but the wires can go on either way right? (meaning left/right doesn't matter) because I think that the switch itself can go inside the handlebar bracket with the probes either way.

By the way, I did have to replace the handlebar bracket because it was cracked. I just don't know if the handlebar being cracked because of my fall would ruin this switch.

Thanks.

 

No need to crimp any connectors, just wrap the bare wire around the connectors on the bike, hell you could just tape the two wires together so they make contact with each other.