Just wondering if anyone ahs installed Custom LED's Magic Blinkers on their F4i. On their website they mention:

"In order to properly utilize the Custom LED Magic Blinkers on the Honda CBR 1000RR, years 2004 and newer, (as well as numerous other Honda motorcycle models) the constant power input wire (red) must be connected to a ignition switched source (other than that for the stock blinkers).The headlight source is perfect for this.The problem is that the running light wire that runs to the blinkers cuts off when the blinkers are activated, and stays off until the blinkers are canceled.This causes the operated load (LEDs or lamps)to not work properly as the Magic Blinkers are designed to draw all power from the "running light" input wire."

I was going to install Hotbodies Flushmounts one of these days and wanted the running lights installed. I read several posts about using diodes, and then some more posts about how diodes get really hot and could melt your plastic fairing. Is this true? Are Magic Blinkers worth it on a F4i for the price ($35)? If diodes are the best way to go, any suggestions on the type of diodes I should use?

 

the diodes don't get hot, resistors get hot.....

i have the hotbodies with diodes for almost a year now and have never had a problem

 

What diodes did you use? Any recommended wattage specs?

 

i don't remember the actual diode number, but it was from radioshack...if you do a search, you'll find a full wiring diagram (really simple actually) along with the diode types to use...

basically, all the diode does is prevent current from running back up into wiring harness....so you essentially make a "Y"...meaning from the running light, and the blinker light wire, you wire a diode to each....then the two ends of the diode goes to the power of the blinker and the ground goes to the ground....that's pretty much the short of it...

it's really easy if you take your time and do it right and solder the connections....like i said, i have had my upper off about 6-7 times since i have done that mod and the lights and connections have never had a problem...

 

ive had the same setup as ffingers on my f4i for about a year now and no issues at all. if you are worried about the resistors getting hot, you can always install an electronic LED flasher realy instead. i have one of those as well and it works perfect. no huge resistors on any of my led signals (which would be all of them)

 

If the diodes are driving just leds and not filament lamps there's no reason to get hot. they could be 1n4007s for eg
For filament lamps more care needs to be taken. One way to get the wattage could be:
measure the resistance of the hotbodies light using a multimeter ($15-20 at radioshack). 12V/Resistance = max current through lamp.
diode drops say 1V, so wattage of diode = 1V*max current through lamp = numerically, max current through lamp. just get a diode with twice this wattage just to be sure. If the diodes have lower wattage, put multiple diodes in parallel so that their wattage adds up to more than twice of the max current through lamp.

just my .02

 

Thanks...thats all some great advice. Radioshack has zenner diodes as well. Can those work with the flushmounts?

 

zener diode has something other functionality, but as you could see, i offered to use it in the scheme too.
basically it cuts the excess voltage over it's setting. for example if you give 12v to a 5.3v zener diode, the output will be 5.3v. that's why i offered to add a zener diode to running lights side to make the running lights more dim than turn signal itself.
ps> zener diode can get warm or hot too

 

The zener diode also has the property that is has a more feasible reverse breakdown voltage. The reverse breakdown will only affect you though if the reverse breakdown voltage is less than your (assumed) 12V electrical system. The breakdown voltage is the voltage at which the diode will allow reverse current (which is most likely not what you want). The zener diode will most likely also cost you more than a run of the mill silicon diode.