F4i - Main Forum Main F4i discussion board

head light issues

Old Mar 21, 2014 | 08:37 AM
  #1  
GK45241's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Default head light issues

Any advice is appreciated.

I was riding home the other night and lost my headlights. I have opened the right throttle control and my wiring is still soldered and intact. Bike starts fine as normal. I had just replaced both headlights so I know they are good (taking care not to touch the actual bulb).

I checked the fuse and replaced it to make sure it was good. What is my next step for tracing down the issue? I have no low or high beam. Could a faulty connection in the left high/low switch cause this issue?

I'm at a loss.

Thanks,
Gary
 
Reply
Old Mar 21, 2014 | 09:24 AM
  #2  
Incompatible's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 379
Likes: 1
From: So Cal
Default

Possible gummy starter switch contacts, common problem. Starter switch cuts out headlight circuit for starting then re-engages when switch is released. Had a similar situation as yours with mine. A squirt of WD-40 and working the switch a few times corrected the problem. No repeat problems in over a year.
 

Last edited by Incompatible; Mar 21, 2014 at 09:27 AM.
Reply
Old Mar 21, 2014 | 10:56 AM
  #3  
GK45241's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Default lights

Originally Posted by Incompatible
Possible gummy starter switch contacts, common problem. Starter switch cuts out headlight circuit for starting then re-engages when switch is released. Had a similar situation as yours with mine. A squirt of WD-40 and working the switch a few times corrected the problem. No repeat problems in over a year.

I will check this again. The bright indicator will not display if the starter switch is partially engaged. The blue bright indicator on the dash is getting power (indicating that the switch is powered, i think), but the actual lights are not illuminating. I opened the switch to make sure the solder contacts were still firm and complete as well. Stupid light switch seems to be the weakest part of the Honda.
 
Reply
Old Mar 21, 2014 | 11:09 AM
  #4  
74demon's Avatar
Administrator and MVN, March 2012/Oct 2013 ROTM
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 12,193
Likes: 119
From: socal 949/951
Default

Check the start switch, not the High/low switch. Start the bike and pull on the start button. They stick in and kill the lights...

Don't assume the new bulbs are good. Check them anyway. An overcharging R/R can blow the bulbs.
 
Reply
Old Mar 21, 2014 | 11:26 AM
  #5  
GK45241's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Default

Originally Posted by 74demon
Check the start switch, not the High/low switch. Start the bike and pull on the start button. They stick in and kill the lights...

Don't assume the new bulbs are good. Check them anyway. An overcharging R/R can blow the bulbs.

I opened the starter switch first. I assumed that the contact had come un soldered, however I was confused because the FI primes. If I pull the light out and make sure it is not disengaging the lights the brights/blue light comes on on the gauges. I would assume this would show power to the headlights as well.

I can't imagine both lights frying at the same time, but I guess it is possible. I had just put new lights in before the last ride. I have a spare so I will double check the light is indeed good.

Thanks for the ideas. hadn't thought of a rectifier overcharge popping the bulbs. I will check that tonight.

If anyone else has ideas feel free to chime in. some great information so far.
 
Reply
Old Mar 21, 2014 | 10:12 PM
  #6  
GK45011's Avatar
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 14
Likes: 1
Default

Originally Posted by 74demon
Check the start switch, not the High/low switch. Start the bike and pull on the start button. They stick in and kill the lights...

Don't assume the new bulbs are good. Check them anyway. An overcharging R/R can blow the bulbs.
Good call on the bulbs being blown. Both filaments burned through on both bulbs. The PO has left me a bird nest of electrical tape and added wires.
I would like to rewire properly to get rid of the mess. I was thinking of by passing the relay and hooking both lights to a known good switched+. If I do this to clean it up and get rid of all the issues will I cause any issues other than not being able to switch between high/low beams?


opinions?


Gary
 
Reply
Old Mar 21, 2014 | 10:29 PM
  #7  
74demon's Avatar
Administrator and MVN, March 2012/Oct 2013 ROTM
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 12,193
Likes: 119
From: socal 949/951
Default

I'd pick up a new sub harness for the front and return it back to the stock set up. Less problems that way.

Don't forget to take a charging voltage reading....
 
Reply
Old Mar 21, 2014 | 10:41 PM
  #8  
GK45011's Avatar
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 14
Likes: 1
Default

Originally Posted by 74demon
I'd pick up a new sub harness for the front and return it back to the stock set up. Less problems that way.

Don't forget to take a charging voltage reading....


A new front harness will be in the longer plan when I can find one and afford one. I won't screw anything up doing it this way in the mean time will I?


where should I check my voltage? what should I be looking for? How many volt etc. at battery? at switched ignition wire? both?


Gary
 
Reply
Old Mar 21, 2014 | 10:44 PM
  #9  
74demon's Avatar
Administrator and MVN, March 2012/Oct 2013 ROTM
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 12,193
Likes: 119
From: socal 949/951
Default

On the battery. You should have no more than 14.5V at 5k rpm.
 
Reply
Old Mar 21, 2014 | 10:46 PM
  #10  
GK45011's Avatar
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 14
Likes: 1
Default

Originally Posted by 74demon
On the battery. You should have no more than 14.5V at 5k rpm.


10-4. I will check in the A.M.
 
Reply

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:15 PM.