Fixed CCT, now bike wont start :(
manual says to set TDC but you can still adjust without out.
there's no way to comparing the OEM cctl length with manual!!!!
when you pull out the stock CCTL, it extends all the way out as it's spring loaded...and always wanting to extend to tighten...if you adjusted your ape to 5-8mm more than what the stock cctl is at full extension, it's WAY TOO TIGHT...
does this make sense?
if your bike did jump timing, it would still start, just run like crap. does it fire up with the APE cctl totally loose?
T
there's no way to comparing the OEM cctl length with manual!!!!
when you pull out the stock CCTL, it extends all the way out as it's spring loaded...and always wanting to extend to tighten...if you adjusted your ape to 5-8mm more than what the stock cctl is at full extension, it's WAY TOO TIGHT...
does this make sense?
if your bike did jump timing, it would still start, just run like crap. does it fire up with the APE cctl totally loose?
T
I didnt change to APE. I just took off the top bolt of the CCT and put in a longer bolt.
So I took it to the shop hoping I'd not bent any valves and such, and the guy said it started up the next day
Problem is the CCT sound still seems to be there... maybe lesser. I didnt really adjust it to make sure the sound went away (since it wouldnt start)
I dont want to mess with it anymore [&o]
So I took it to the shop hoping I'd not bent any valves and such, and the guy said it started up the next day

Problem is the CCT sound still seems to be there... maybe lesser. I didnt really adjust it to make sure the sound went away (since it wouldnt start)
I dont want to mess with it anymore [&o]
Could check compression - if it was way out of whack to where it wouldn't run, you'd find your compression on all cylinders is very low... (Valve not closing/opening when it should)
There SHOULD be fuel smell from the exhaust.- you did check all the obvious first right?- Pump primes, wires are all connected and nothing would have gotten bumped... - Specifically, I would look for the Cam and Crank position sensors and wiring.
***Sorry - didn't notice you said that it did wind up starting...***
Hearing stories like this makes me want to just LEAVE MINE ALONE... - Looking at how that tensioner is put together, it shouldn't get slack to the point of jumping, just rattle... - I don't think a longer bolt would help at all though - watch out - that top bolt is just to seal it so the oil stays in the engine.
There SHOULD be fuel smell from the exhaust.- you did check all the obvious first right?- Pump primes, wires are all connected and nothing would have gotten bumped... - Specifically, I would look for the Cam and Crank position sensors and wiring.
***Sorry - didn't notice you said that it did wind up starting...***
Hearing stories like this makes me want to just LEAVE MINE ALONE... - Looking at how that tensioner is put together, it shouldn't get slack to the point of jumping, just rattle... - I don't think a longer bolt would help at all though - watch out - that top bolt is just to seal it so the oil stays in the engine.
Search away - you'll find lots of info...
Honda 600's CCTs are noisy on pretty much all 99-06 F4/F4i's - Occasionally people have found fixes for the automatic tensioner, but they generally do not stick for long (a few thousand miles). - From what I've seen on them, and the way they are made, they are working as designed, however there are loose parts (tip and shaft) inside that will cause them to rattle. Annoying to listen to, but nothing that will do damage.
You can replace them with a manual tensioner, however you should occasionally (annually) readjust it.
I think I'll just be living with the rattle until Honda makes a quiet automatic tensioner. - They have had at least 3 revisions so far (J21, J22, J23) with no major improvements in the noise...
Honda 600's CCTs are noisy on pretty much all 99-06 F4/F4i's - Occasionally people have found fixes for the automatic tensioner, but they generally do not stick for long (a few thousand miles). - From what I've seen on them, and the way they are made, they are working as designed, however there are loose parts (tip and shaft) inside that will cause them to rattle. Annoying to listen to, but nothing that will do damage.
You can replace them with a manual tensioner, however you should occasionally (annually) readjust it.
I think I'll just be living with the rattle until Honda makes a quiet automatic tensioner. - They have had at least 3 revisions so far (J21, J22, J23) with no major improvements in the noise...
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