This was one of those things that was giving me grief and a guy here mentioned it and it turned out to be the issue so I assumed it was widespread.

This issue is where the connectors in the starter switch (cutoff the HL when you start the bike) get loose or corroded causing the HL to malfunction. Sometimes you can push the starter button (even while running) and it will let the light work again.

 

Hello I have a 2001 cbr 600f4i i would like to know what other cbr years have the same parts as in could i take an 05 or 06 f4i and basically strip my 01 from engine to fairings and use the parts and engine from a newer cbr? if so what complications will i come across?

 

I'm absolutely sick of looking for this, so here we go.

http://www.hotbodiesracing.com/installdocs/46.pdf

 

Front axle: pinch bolts 16 ft/lbs
Axle nut: 44 ft/lbs

 

Is there any point to these "cowl hooks"? Because my bike has just regular bolts there and they dont stick out like the oem ones..





Also, This part of my cowl is cracked on both sides and it seems like it happened because when you squeeze with your knees (lol) it pushes the cowl towards the gas tank. Is there supposed to be a spacer or some piece to hold the cowl away from the gas tank?

 

just found out that an f4 radiator will fit an f4i, other than the overflow nipple sticks out toward the front of the bike rather than the middle, i just bent mine slowly to an L. also found out the f4 radiator fan WILL NOT work on an f4i unless you swap the terminals on the fan side. same connector but it will blow fuses all day long if you leave it normal. heres a pic so you can understand better. (left is F4I, right is F4)

 

the "cowl hooks" as you call them have a couple uses for me. One if I'm leaving my bike for just a few seconds, i hang my helmet there by the d-ring. it works nicely for that. two, I use a bungee net cargo hold down and i hook it in the front around those. Without them I couldn't use my cargo tie down.

mine is cracked in the same place as yours. I accidentally cracked mine when i had my gas tank off to replace my cct. the weight of the gas tank sitting on those pieces of plastic cracked them. theres no spacer but i doubt you broke them by squeezing them with your knees.

 

I think the main problem is the top of the cowl extension is not supported and flexes against the rigid attachment base.

Same thing on mine with an easy 2 part fix.
1. Pull the cowl off and use about 1/2 tube of JB Weld reinforced with a metal strip on the underside of each crack. This will make the area rigid and prevent further cracking from the plastic flexing. When applying the JB Weld stay below the level of the bolt gusset base of the cowl and be generous, you're making this strong enough to be rigid and not crack when you squeeze it.

2. The oe bolt has a collar on it and when tightened helps to hold the cowl rigid along with the bolt head. I replaced the oe bolt with a non-collar one and using BLUE (medium strength) loctite, installed the bolt so that it was backed off one full rotation from bottoming out. Removal of the collar and not bottoming the bolt allows the cowl extension to pivot a small amount on the bolt shaft. This allows the extension to flex over a larger area and not the isolated to the small area of the crack. The loctite prevents the bolt from backing out under vibration.

When the cowl is reinstalled, the crack barely visible. I now have 1500 miles since the repair on mine and no problems.

 

Back again

Previous owner cut into intake air duct;
This obviously negates the ram air affect, but how important is that? Anyone have any knowledgeable insight or experience to how this hole in my air duct will decrease performance?

 

Great simple info! Should be able to do my first oil change no problem now , thanks!