Clutch hook up
#1
#2
Hey guys has anyone done there own clutch replacement i see that peps have replaced them but did you all have the shop do it?
I can't seem to get any resistance on the clutch lever on the right case housing. I have placed it back on with the pin in place and don't get any resistance.
Is the pin supposed to have about 1" 1 1/2" of free play when you put the clutch plate back on? Is the clutch bearing supposed to be flush on the plate?
I can't seem to get any resistance on the clutch lever on the right case housing. I have placed it back on with the pin in place and don't get any resistance.
Is the pin supposed to have about 1" 1 1/2" of free play when you put the clutch plate back on? Is the clutch bearing supposed to be flush on the plate?
#3
What do you meen by free play?
I just did My clutch yesterday was Very easy.
Pulled off cover (was the hardest part getting it to separate from motor.)
removed the presher springs Pulled off the primary Plate and pulled each clutch and steal out one at a time.
reversed this with new plates and steals.
put the primary plate back on put new springs on.
when you put the cover pack on make sure the pull rod is all the way down in the cover and the large opening is toward the pull out PIN.
put cover back on(Dont run one bolt all the way down tight)
I took a rubber mallet and taped to cover back onto the motor at this point you should be able to turn the clutch rode towards the cable and it should stop about 1.5 inchs from it Give or take I didn't measure.
put cable back on and adjusted the clutch.
I just did My clutch yesterday was Very easy.
Pulled off cover (was the hardest part getting it to separate from motor.)
removed the presher springs Pulled off the primary Plate and pulled each clutch and steal out one at a time.
reversed this with new plates and steals.
put the primary plate back on put new springs on.
when you put the cover pack on make sure the pull rod is all the way down in the cover and the large opening is toward the pull out PIN.
put cover back on(Dont run one bolt all the way down tight)
I took a rubber mallet and taped to cover back onto the motor at this point you should be able to turn the clutch rode towards the cable and it should stop about 1.5 inchs from it Give or take I didn't measure.
put cable back on and adjusted the clutch.
#4
I have replaced my own clutch on my 2002 Honda CBR F4i..it was easy. Only thing that I screwed up was putting the stupid crank sensor in backwards and the bike wouldn't start afterwards. :P
On youtube there is a video of a clutch change in a 2002 Honda CBR F4i...take a look at it.
Are you talking about the pin that sits in the middle of the clutch packs that will disengage the steel plates and clutches? When I was done with everything, you could push the pin in towards the motor, and then pull it back out until it stopped hitting the pressure plate.
Did you replace the springs too? At 10,600 miles the springs on my clutch were worn and shorter than my new OEM springs.
If you are talking about getting the rod that connects to your clutch cable and the pin to meet correctly, you need to flip the arm to the left so that the pin and rod will mesh correctly.
Again, take a look at the video on youtube..its super easy.
On youtube there is a video of a clutch change in a 2002 Honda CBR F4i...take a look at it.
Are you talking about the pin that sits in the middle of the clutch packs that will disengage the steel plates and clutches? When I was done with everything, you could push the pin in towards the motor, and then pull it back out until it stopped hitting the pressure plate.
Did you replace the springs too? At 10,600 miles the springs on my clutch were worn and shorter than my new OEM springs.
If you are talking about getting the rod that connects to your clutch cable and the pin to meet correctly, you need to flip the arm to the left so that the pin and rod will mesh correctly.
Again, take a look at the video on youtube..its super easy.
#5
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