Initially, I tightened mine up until I felt resistance. Started up the engine and further tightened it (about 1/8 turn) until the noise went away, and locked it in. Upon taking my bike out for a ride, the rattling was still there. Went back in, unlocked it and applied very moderate pressure to the tensioner with the engine running. I noticed that the tensioner would turn tighter in until it reached a particular spot, and then it would not want to go in further without applying significantly more pressure. After having examined how the OEM CCTL operated and the amount of tension the spring exerted, I felt confident that the amount of effort applied to the tensioner was equal to that of the stock piece. Subsequent ride revealed the noise had ceased. Final setting of the tensioner was about 1/2 turn tighter after resistance was felt, but the cam chain has tight and loose sections depending on which part of the revolution it last stopped in. To accurately adjust the tensioner without removal of the valve cover, I think it's necessary to adjust it with the engine running, and I think one should adjust by feel rather than by sound, imo.

 

uniqsol it better to try the cct first as its a big/common problem

 

Uniqsol- yes the sound can appear to be coming from the front of tank area... i would bet it's your CCT. Mine didn't sound like BB's... just buzzing/rattling. How long can you go before you change it? I had 17k and it was annoying me bad... i only rode 1k miles after getting the bike and had to change it... couldn't stand it. Some guys put on 10k miles with it making noise. Worst case- tensioner fails totally, engine jumps timing, bye-bye engine.

I paid $50 for the CCT and $5 for the gasket from my local Honda Dealer.

It's a cheap part and takes about an hour or so... there is no reason not to do it.

This is how I did it:

1. Remove gas tank. Our tanks don't have the shut-off valve petcock like carb'ed bikes do... unbolt tank and there are 2 fuel lines. Use hose clamps or vise grips to pinch off lines.
2. Remove right side fairing.
3. Part is on right top of engine... can't miss it. Yes the space is tight- if you have large gorilla hands, you may have problems (find friend, girlfriend, midget, horse jockey, ect. with small hands) I'm 6', 215lbs, average build, and my hands fit.

I removed top bolt first by going in through the top. Bottom bolt, I broke loose through the access hole in the frame- used a swivel and extension. I then went back in from the top of engine and removed bolt.

1/4" drive stuff helps since it's tight but I did it all with 3/8" stuff. Ratchet, hex-head (allen head) drive socket, 6" extension, and a swivel (u-joint).

4. Remove CCT, scrape off old gasket.
5. Put new gasket on CCT, put bottom bolt through hole to hold gasket. Put it back in the engine. Bottom bolt can be a pain to get started by hand but take your time.

There ya go- good as new. Another how-to with pics:
http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/fo...ad.php?t=81780

 

hey uniqsol try this step by step

http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/fo...threadid=81780

 

If you want OEM, then get Honda part J23: LINK.

 

Make sure you ask for a "Cam Chain Tensioner Lifter". Not just the cam chain tensioner, or you'll get the wrong part. Part numbers:

Cam Chain Tensioner Lifter ... 14520-MBW-J23
CCTL Gasket ...................... 14523-MAL-A00

 

http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/fo...threadid=81780 is the best writeup i've seen, have done 2 cct jobs according to that writeup, very simple.

 

It's basically a spring tensioned screw. If you turn the head, it will retract. No.4 is what makes No.6 go in/out.

 

I deleted over 300 posts and cut it down 21 pages to make this the OFFICIAL CCT(L) thread. I hope this answers your questions!

 

Horray for the CCTL STICKY!!