CCTL
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 52
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From:
RE: CCTL
I have a 2001 f4i. started around 10,000. there is an easy fix. Have done it 2 my own bike and buddys have done same and no problems since. If your CCTL has a bolt in the end of it. Remove this bolt. go to local hardware store and by a 6mm x 1.00 x 30mm bolt and a nut. Hand screw bolt in just till it hits, HAND TIGHTEN ONLY, then put wrench on bolt to hold and tighten nut against CCTL with another wrench. This will elimanate the rattle and basically makes it a manual tensioner. Somw will say it will hurt the bike but my buddy has over 12k on his since he did this. I have close to 1k and so far all is well. It's a $1.50 fix and about an hr or so change out because it's so tight in there but versus the $60 some odd dollars for a ne CCTL and labor if ur gonna have it done it's well worth it.
2001 cbr f4i
Chrome rims
Micron carbon fiber slip on
Carbon fiber windscreen
Fender elimanater kit
Blue neon
2001 cbr f4i
Chrome rims
Micron carbon fiber slip on
Carbon fiber windscreen
Fender elimanater kit
Blue neon
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From:
RE: CCTL
If you decide to go with the $1.50 fix let me know I might still be able to find the link that give you step by step instructions on how to do this. Just leave a post on here. Hondas are known for this and thr consenses is that the rattling will not do any damage to anything its just the pin inside that has wear on it that vibrates at certain rpms. I rode mine for a while b4 fixing, the noise just got on my nerves, lol
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From:
RE: CCTL
This is what a buddy of mine posted on another forum, he is a mechanic, so he knows what he is talking about:
Try this instead of buying a new CCT
Honda Cam Chain Tensioners, yes they suck big time but there is a $1.50 fix for the later Hondas, F3 and up. If the CCT has a plug (bolt) at the outer end remove it. Buy a 6X1.00X30mm bolt and nut. Thread the nut on the bolt and install the bolt into the hole that the plug was in. Gently (fingertip pressure only) rotate bolt until it makes contact with the piston. Hold bolt with wrench and tighten nut against the CCT case. Your CCT will now be silent. Why does this fix work? The CCT in the Hondas does not have a ratcheting mechanism. It depends on a left handed threaded shaft that is spring loaded. Due to the locking pitch thread design this shaft cannot back up. Sounds good so far. Unfortunatly the shaft stays in one place so long that the constant vibration wears out the shaft or the nut that the shaft rides in. The shaft gets sloppy and does not exert enough pressure on the chain pad so the chain starts to rattle at high rpm. The bolt fix exerts just enough pressure on the threaded shaft that it prevents the shaft from vibrating and backing up thus eliminating the chain noise. Yes you will have to adjust the bolt but so far I have no historical data as to how long the time intervals are in between adjustments. Maybe some of you big milege people can provide the data. Any way, hope it prevents you from buying a new CCT. Latest data, the cheap fix has been working for at least 60K miles in a Honda F4
Try this instead of buying a new CCT
Honda Cam Chain Tensioners, yes they suck big time but there is a $1.50 fix for the later Hondas, F3 and up. If the CCT has a plug (bolt) at the outer end remove it. Buy a 6X1.00X30mm bolt and nut. Thread the nut on the bolt and install the bolt into the hole that the plug was in. Gently (fingertip pressure only) rotate bolt until it makes contact with the piston. Hold bolt with wrench and tighten nut against the CCT case. Your CCT will now be silent. Why does this fix work? The CCT in the Hondas does not have a ratcheting mechanism. It depends on a left handed threaded shaft that is spring loaded. Due to the locking pitch thread design this shaft cannot back up. Sounds good so far. Unfortunatly the shaft stays in one place so long that the constant vibration wears out the shaft or the nut that the shaft rides in. The shaft gets sloppy and does not exert enough pressure on the chain pad so the chain starts to rattle at high rpm. The bolt fix exerts just enough pressure on the threaded shaft that it prevents the shaft from vibrating and backing up thus eliminating the chain noise. Yes you will have to adjust the bolt but so far I have no historical data as to how long the time intervals are in between adjustments. Maybe some of you big milege people can provide the data. Any way, hope it prevents you from buying a new CCT. Latest data, the cheap fix has been working for at least 60K miles in a Honda F4
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From:
RE: CCTL
If its the CCTL it will sound like bb's rolling aroung in a can. It shouldn't do it until you get up to about 5k on the rpms. At least mine only did it then but it got worse the longer I let it go. Been told it will not hurt engine though. The CCTL is on the right back side of the motor, it will sound as if something is just loose and rattling. Hondas are known for this because of it being an automatic adjuster, thats the only thing Honda didn't do right on theses bikes. It's not a hellacious noise but is more annoing then anything and a buddy of mine ran his all last summer like that and it did get louder but nothing that made it sound like it was gonna blow something up. Where is the sound coming from, what part of engine?
