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CCT gone bad... again?

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  #11  
Old 10-12-2010, 08:25 PM
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OK, knonfs, I have to admit "uncle jeff" makes a good argument for the tip of the cctl being the problem, and the source of the noise, but it still comes down to a "bad" cctl. He is the first and only person I've heard make these claims, but that doesn't mean he isn't right. I'm hoping to get a new cctl for my bike soon and have to admit I'll probably try the mod he suggests, if I can figure out how, lol. I couldn't get any of the pics to come up on my computer and spent hours looking for, but didn't find, a tutorial that actually spelled it out. I'll research a little further and if I do perform this mod, and it works, I'll post it in the "how to" section.
 
  #12  
Old 10-13-2010, 01:31 AM
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A.P.E Manual and your nightmares are over for good the 1st time
 
  #13  
Old 10-21-2010, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Rommy
I'd honestly feel more comfortable getting a new one from Honda right now (I've found that OEM parts are the most reliable, honestly) then if it comes up again (Probably not for years, considering I've had the bike for 5 months and only put 1,000 miles on it!) I will get an APE CCTL instead.
i used to think this same thing but the last OEM cct i got went back after 1200 miles. trust me on this and get the manual. im sure some people have OEM cct's w/ plenty of miles but i went through 2 of them in record time. dont take the chance.
 
  #14  
Old 10-21-2010, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Rommy
I'll probably just get an APE, if I can find one locally. Sick97SS, they welded a nut and then rounded it off. I figured it wouldn't be the best fix but it was rattling so much I needed to do something, even if temporary. They did a number of other things to the bike however I do not believe they charged me anything over the cost of a CCTL to do the work. I'd honestly feel more comfortable getting a new one from Honda right now (I've found that OEM parts are the most reliable, honestly) then if it comes up again (Probably not for years, considering I've had the bike for 5 months and only put 1,000 miles on it!) I will get an APE CCTL instead.

I wouldn't pay for labor on a fix you can do yourself in a couple hours max. There are plenty of DIY threads on this topic (complete with pics and a list of tools needed for the job) that will walk you right through it. You will, however, need to be patient. Replacing those things require some Cirque de soliel with the ratchet and extensions.
BTW, I replaced mine with an APE but would be equally confident with an OEM replacement for the same price.

Cheers!
 
  #15  
Old 10-22-2010, 10:00 PM
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heres the write-up i used the first time i did it. i would highly recommend using a 1/4" drive socket, swivel, and extension if you plan on going through the frame. save you a ton of trouble..

http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/fo...threadid=81780

if you need easier access you can remove the airbox and go in from the top.
 
  #16  
Old 04-12-2011, 12:07 PM
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I repl mine 9k ago with an OEM and it is already bad. GO with an APE.
 




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