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Brake torque specs

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Old 10-03-2013, 11:05 AM
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Default Brake torque specs

Hey everyone, just finished changing out my front and rear pads with ebc hh sintered pads. Does anyone know the torque specs for the two Allen head bolts on the front calipers to remove the pads an the two long bolts on the rear along with the Allen head bolt with the setscrew on the rear. I tightened them by hand an want to be sure. I don't have my manual yet so just wondered if anyone knew. Thanks!
 
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Old 10-03-2013, 11:01 PM
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The PDF is linked in the manuals thread. I've never actually used a torque wrench on the allen headed bolts holding the pads in the calipers, and I torque pretty much everything on the bike. They are so small that the only thing to really worry about is over tightening them.
 
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Old 10-05-2013, 06:38 PM
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Thanks so much. I've been checking everything after every ride and seem to be ok. Rode 200 miles on the parkway today also no problems. I'm still having trouble locating the PDF manual files on this forum. I can't find them anywhere.
 
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Old 10-06-2013, 02:26 PM
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General tech sticky forum. The allen bolts aren't going to come loose. Just make sure to torque the actual caliper to fork bolts.
 
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Old 10-06-2013, 07:41 PM
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Thanks for the help. Found the manual thread. I only had to take the Allen head bolts out on the front and slid the pads out. I guess my main concern were the two bolts holding on the rear caliper but all is good now. Didn't realize how easy motorcycle brakes were, glad I took the time.
 
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Old 10-08-2013, 11:36 AM
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Torque wrenches are for inside the motor, outside the motor you just do it to feel...

As an example if you torque the rear axle to spec on many bikes it will bind the rear wheel to the point it causes parasitic drag and slows down the rotation of the wheel not to mention puts additional lateral stress on the bearings causing premature failure. If you simply tighten the axle nut until it starts to slow down the rotation then back it out a bit to free it up it is still more than adequate to keep everything tight & safe without any extra harm.

As for the EBC HH pads WHY??? I wrote an article about my brake pads experiences over the years here and for those that don't know it the HRC race pads for the RC51 were never actually made for the RC51, but the F4i specifically because the RC51 was never races in supersport only the F4i. In superbike trim the RC51 received Brembo brakes, but since the HRC race pads for the F4i also happen to fit the RC51 OEM calipers they became the pads of choice all over the world until they sold out. At any rate the article explains why EBC pads suck

ROGUE Brake Pads Information Page
 
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Old 10-08-2013, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by LDH
Torque wrenches are for inside the motor, outside the motor you just do it to feel...

As an example if you torque the rear axle to spec on many bikes it will bind the rear wheel to the point it causes parasitic drag and slows down the rotation of the wheel not to mention puts additional lateral stress on the bearings causing premature failure. If you simply tighten the axle nut until it starts to slow down the rotation then back it out a bit to free it up it is still more than adequate to keep everything tight & safe without any extra harm.

As for the EBC HH pads WHY??? I wrote an article about my brake pads experiences over the years here and for those that don't know it the HRC race pads for the RC51 were never actually made for the RC51, but the F4i specifically because the RC51 was never races in supersport only the F4i. In superbike trim the RC51 received Brembo brakes, but since the HRC race pads for the F4i also happen to fit the RC51 OEM calipers they became the pads of choice all over the world until they sold out. At any rate the article explains why EBC pads suck

ROGUE Brake Pads Information Page
Seriously? The manual specifically states torque specs on the oil drain plug and oil filter. Those are both "outside" the motor. Guess I like to follow procedure. As for YOUR opinion on EBC pads, it's your opinion. I don't race my bike and I don't run the dog crap out of it either. It seems to be a problem on this forum that if you don't do it the same way or buy the same parts as someone else then you're somehow inferior. One more reason why I probably should quit posting which is a shame bc there are a few very nice positive people on the forum but you always have a select few that find faults about everything. I was damn proud to change out my brake pads and I don't need someone telling me I got the wrong ones.
It's like you owning a ford and me a Chevy and me telling you how mercron trans fluid sucks and how great dexron trans fluid is. Who the hell cares, it's apple and oranges. Different strokes for different folks...
 

Last edited by Tele1650; 10-08-2013 at 07:10 PM.
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Old 10-08-2013, 08:01 PM
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LDH- What exactly is premature bearing wear? I've been torqueing my rear axle nut to spec for over 7yrs and 61,000 miles now and Im still on original everything. Perhaps your idea is good for a track bike that sees very limited time in between tightening and checking things but for a street bike your advise is going to hurt someone some day.

tele- LDH is correct in observing that EBC's HH's aren't the best pads availible. [I myself prefer oem pads on the f4i for street/strip dual duty] No need to get upset that he pointed it out. Means next time you can make a more informed decision. And while they might not be the best, they are still perfectly acceptable pads that won't give you any trouble.
 
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