Another CCTL Thread (just double checking before i try it)
#12
#13
So i replaced my CCT with the APE one yesterday, and i used pittsm's guide which made it easy (still a pain in the ***, but easy =P). now for some strange reason i almost miss the sound and trying to avoid it from happening lol.
EDIT: oh yeah it works great and im so happy my bike is properly functioning for the most part, still gotta replace the speed sensor since my speedo is broken too
EDIT: oh yeah it works great and im so happy my bike is properly functioning for the most part, still gotta replace the speed sensor since my speedo is broken too
#14
I don't know if this particular mod has been posted on here before so apologies if it has. I found a super cheap, $0.67 semi-solution on a RR board. I say "semi" because my rattling hasn't completely gone away but it has improved dramatically and the noise is much more faint now. For others it may or may not eliminate the noise completely.
Anyhoo... on to the how-to. I bought a 6mm bolt, nut and washer from Home Depot for $0.67 tax-in =). The washer was useless as the outer diameter wasn't large enough to cover the entire opening at the end of the CCTL. No worries though, I just reused the old one. The bolt I purchased is much longer than the stock bolt. It's about 1 1/4" I think... buy a couple of different lengths just to be safe.
Now, here's what to do:
1. Spin the nut onto the bolt all the way to the head (to give you room for adjustment). This will serve as a lock nut similar to the manual adjusters.
2. Slip on the washer
3. Screw the bolt assembly you just made into the CCTL until you feel resistance. The idea is to make contact with the adjustment screw inside the CCTL. Have fun trying to do this btw, the space is super tight and will take some patience. I found a magnetic pickup tool is helpful to hold the bolt in position while you slowly turn it so it bites.
4. Spin the nut by hand towards the CCTL to keep the bolt from backing off but not too tight yet!
5. Start her up and throttle slowly through the rev range. If you don't hear any noise then shut her off, tighten the locking nut, replace your fairings and go for a ride!
If you're still hearing BBs in there, go back and tighten/loosen the bolt in small increments and re-test for noise. You may or may not be able to completely eliminate the rattle ut once you have her where you want her, lock that $#it down and call it a day.
Congratulations! You now have a quieter bike and a cool, OEM-APE-like hybrid thingi attached to your F4i. And best of all, it cost less than a dollar!
Why does this work? Well, from what I understand, part or all of the noise you're hearing apparently comes from some play in the CCTL's overal lifter assembly (not just the tip). By pushing on the adjuster screw inside the unit you eliminate some of this play and, therefore, the rattling noise. Your mileage may vary though as everyone's situation seems to be slightly different but at a fraction of a dollar you can't lose by trying (except maybe your patience).
In my case, the rattling had gotten so bad that I was getting it pretty much all throughout the rev range including idle sometimes. After this mod, I only get a slight bit of rattle at 5500 rpm and perhaps a faint whisper around 3K or so.
Anyhoo... on to the how-to. I bought a 6mm bolt, nut and washer from Home Depot for $0.67 tax-in =). The washer was useless as the outer diameter wasn't large enough to cover the entire opening at the end of the CCTL. No worries though, I just reused the old one. The bolt I purchased is much longer than the stock bolt. It's about 1 1/4" I think... buy a couple of different lengths just to be safe.
Now, here's what to do:
1. Spin the nut onto the bolt all the way to the head (to give you room for adjustment). This will serve as a lock nut similar to the manual adjusters.
2. Slip on the washer
3. Screw the bolt assembly you just made into the CCTL until you feel resistance. The idea is to make contact with the adjustment screw inside the CCTL. Have fun trying to do this btw, the space is super tight and will take some patience. I found a magnetic pickup tool is helpful to hold the bolt in position while you slowly turn it so it bites.
4. Spin the nut by hand towards the CCTL to keep the bolt from backing off but not too tight yet!
5. Start her up and throttle slowly through the rev range. If you don't hear any noise then shut her off, tighten the locking nut, replace your fairings and go for a ride!
If you're still hearing BBs in there, go back and tighten/loosen the bolt in small increments and re-test for noise. You may or may not be able to completely eliminate the rattle ut once you have her where you want her, lock that $#it down and call it a day.
Congratulations! You now have a quieter bike and a cool, OEM-APE-like hybrid thingi attached to your F4i. And best of all, it cost less than a dollar!
Why does this work? Well, from what I understand, part or all of the noise you're hearing apparently comes from some play in the CCTL's overal lifter assembly (not just the tip). By pushing on the adjuster screw inside the unit you eliminate some of this play and, therefore, the rattling noise. Your mileage may vary though as everyone's situation seems to be slightly different but at a fraction of a dollar you can't lose by trying (except maybe your patience).
In my case, the rattling had gotten so bad that I was getting it pretty much all throughout the rev range including idle sometimes. After this mod, I only get a slight bit of rattle at 5500 rpm and perhaps a faint whisper around 3K or so.
#15
#16
I think I've seen a video sound clip on this forum somewhere you can try to search for it. But the best way to describe it is, it sounds like marbles shaking around in a coffee can or like a swarm of bees inside a coffee can. It will occur around 5k rpm and if its bad you will be able to hear it while riding.
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04-17-2008 10:33 AM