I am replacing my stock chain and sprockets. I keep getting mixed opinions on which sprockets to get. I mainly just ride around town. I like wheelies but I don't stunt..yet. I heard that -1 in the front and +2 in the rear. The local race shop suggested I go one down in the front and leave the rear stock. I also heard that going down 1 in the front verses +2 in the rear is harder on the chain. Any ideas/input on which chain and sprockets to go with? Thanks

 

OEM sprocket sizes are 16/46. <-This is sufficient for the "ride around town" type of riding you're doing. (stunting is another matter entirely)

The most popular mod is to go -1/+2 for quicker acceleration but keep in mind that you'll be running a higher rpm at hwy speed.

D.I.D & RK are Honda OEM suppliers.

There are many places to shop. Many of us here have used Sprocket Center & been happy w/ their products & customer service. I've personally dealt w/ them & have been very pleased.

RK recently was offering a discount for CBRF members for chain/sprocket kits. You may want to check w/ them to see if they still offer that.

Good luck w/ your choices.

 

I'm would like the increased acceleration and easier pull for wheelies. Do you think that +1 in the rear is going to be too inconvenient for street riding?

 

AFAM superlight steel sprockets, RK GXW 520 chain and stock gearing.

 

Why the 520 conversion? It doesn't seem to be a huge benefit and you lose chain life.

 

You won't notice a 0/+1 change
General rule is -1 front is about equal to +3 in the rear, so -1/0 is about equal to 0/+3.

I'm running a -1/0 combo now and am going back to stock, the bike is definately quicker, but highway cruising is at 7-8k instead of 6-7k. I also am planning on riding across the country this year so stock was a good move for me.

If you don't do a lot of highway a -1/0 or 0/+3 combo will be fine.
If you do moderate highway, I'd assume a 0/+2 would be alright.
If you do a lot of highway, stay stock.
If you do no highway, and want to wheelie all the time, -1/+2 is the way to go.
For stunting, you can get crazy combos that I cant get into, but if you do go stunting take off your fairings and mail them to me first.

Also stick with the 525 from RK or DID - a 520 will wear out quicker, and give you no real noticeable improvement in acceleration vs. a 525 (the thought being a lighter rotating mass will allow the bike to accelerate quicker; on the race track sure, in the real world, not worth the trade off)

 

gearingcommander.com

if you still wanna cruise around but need a little extra tourque to do wheelies, I'd go either 0/+1 or 0/+2. When you get into the front sprocket, im told it screws up your speedo a lot. Also, -1/+2 is going to have you winding up on the highway. I have 0/+1 on mine and it is pretty noticable, if you go 0/+2 I'd imagine that would suit your needs.

 

I have -1 front +2 rear and I love it, I do city and back road twisties and highway and am completely pleased with this mod. There is a noticable difference in acceleration compared to stock too.

Check out gearingcommander.com to see the difference in top speed and acceleration.
Also if you change your gearing your speedometer will be off but that is a easy fix with a speedohealer.

I would also keep it 525 I don't see the point in going to a 520 I think most people do it because of the price and how it comes in kits. Also I would reccomend checking out supersprox.

 

It doesn't matter front or rear, If you change any teeth the speedo and odometer will be off.

 

Because you don't loose any chain life and 520 chains are much easier to find and normally cheaper then 525's. Just make sure you use the high tensile strength 520 like the GXW and you'll get plenty of life from them. People get caught up in 520 conversions for speed gains which you just won't feel by itself. As part of a package of improvments you can improve acceleration or more importantly [for me] gas mileage. My 520 setup weighed almost 3lbs less then stock of rotational mass.