Look back about 3 weeks and follow my post about no prime! Same deal, drove me crazy. Follow it closely, and test the wire on the furl cut relay, it gets power from the engine stop relay, but also gets a ground signal from the ecu!!!!!!!! I think it is the brown w/black tracer, check. I did everything you did and had ALL the same problems. Now here is the clincher, if the ecu does not send the ground signal to the relay it will NOT close and will not prime pump, (no power). My ecu will not send ground so all I did is use a jumper wire on the relay and it runs fine, fuel pump will just keep running, just shut it off when you stop. Please keep me posted thanks, ed

 

haha Yep. I love your bike, Ive always wanted an all white rocket. I want to go with toyota/lexus white pearl.

Squidhead...Was your relay busted? Did you replace it and have no luck? Im hoping I didnt just waste 35$ when it wont fix anything.

 

BTW squidhead, I know for a fact that the 20amp relay for the pump was bad. I was hooking up power to it and it would not click no matter what I gave power to and what I grounded. So I hope thats truely my issue, Reading your thread Im feeling a bit uneasy about it, just trying to reassure myself I guess.

Does the fuel pump normally cycle when the bike is running? Or is it constantly running? Just worries me about jumping it.

The other part of the issue is WTF caused my relay to go bad, hopefully just old age, heat, or vibration/shock.

 

hmmm...

1. In my case, both of my relays are definitely good.

2. You can try pulling your headlight relay out and putting it in place of the bad relay. If this does not prime your fuel pump, then something else is wrong.

3. Are you positive you tried giving power and ground to the correct pins on the relay? the correct pins (on both relays) are the rear most pins with respect to the bike. This is the coil part of the relay. Give one pin 12v and one pin ground (has to be a complete circuit and it doesn't matter which one you give ground/12v as long as you are on the 2 rear most pins; if you want to ground the one the ecm grounds, ground the one closest to the bike frame which is the small brown wire with a black tracer (Br/Bl) in this drawing http://www.tunedinnovations.com/F4iH...elayWiring.gif . If you do this correctly, and don't hear/feel a click, then your relay is bad.

1. I BELIEVE the pump will run continuously, in both cases (jumped fuel cut relay or proper relay), WHEN THE BIKE IS RUNNING. This is what the return line to the fuel tank is for. it allows the pump to run continuously and whatever fuel is needed will be controlled by the ECM by pulsing the injectors on and off for a calculated amount of time. LIKE I SAID, THIS IS HOW I BELIEVE THE FUEL SYSTEM WORKS, BUT YOU SHOULD VERIFY THIS even though i am pretty positive.

2. The only difference is that the pump will not prime as it normally does with ignition in ON position and the stop switch in RUN position. Normally when you do this it comes one for about 2 seconds and then shuts off; at this point the bike is ready to start.....WITH THE FUEL CUT RELAY JUMPED the pump will never shut off with ignition in ON position and the stop switch in RUN position. Just start the bike after about 2 seconds and don't leave the pump just sitting there pumping fuel to nothing.

Yea I don't know. I cannot remember what I've read about these particular relays. It was either: they are good and generally do not go bad....OR it was these particular relays are junk and Honda dropped the ball picking them out. It was definitely not inbetween. Sorry that I can't recall.

 

Oh, in the above reply, I replied as if you knew less than your already do. You clearly have shown that you know a lot about the wiring of the bike, but I need to make sure we are on the same page AND when others read this thread, it will be more helpful.

ALSO I bought a 20 dollar multi-meter from Walmart and it works great for everything I ever do; I highly suggest picking one up.

 

The 20amp relay was infact bad, I ordered one and installed it awhile ago and bike has been running fine since then and I just never got back on here to report.

But yes I gave power to, and grounded, each pin of the relay in each possible way, and got no clicks. And since I replaced it and it works fine that goes without saying that it was my issue. Im thinking vibration did it. The prev owner swapped motors and wireing and didnt really secure anything, it mustve bounced enough times.

The fuel pump was back to normal 2 second prime and shutting up

Hopefully other people can learn from my mistake and genuinly test each relay befor making a big complicated post!

No fuel pump conditions can be diagnosed fairly easy on these bikes.
1. test fuel pump at pump connector - if it works move on
2. test relays, both 20amp relays in tail - both needed in order to run
3. test ignition base diode. I learned it can be checked with a test light, the test light will be significantly dimmer on the low volt pink wire. can do the zenner diode and resister for 3$
4. Test pink wire at ECU to make sure wire is not broken.
5. Kill switch
6. Test BAS

In other news the bike got sold on a whim. Im Moving on to a near mint, showroom condition, 2000 original miles, 1995 CB1000 that I couldnt pass up, reason why I sold the cbr so fast! Hopeing Ill keep it around for 5-10 years!

 

Good job of diagnosing your problem. Most people are not that good with electrical issues. This fuel system is complicated but actually simple once you know all the components in-line with it. The zener diode is a good one because it is the anti theft system for the bike, therefore not listed ANYWHERE th help fix the bikes. Thats how honda really cleans up on service$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$. Just one thing to add on your diagnostics, in my opinion is the ground to the fuel cut relay. The reason I say this is because most people dont realize the relay needs the ground on the brown/black wire sent from the ecu or it will never complete the circuit therefore never prime. I feel these bikes manufactured from 2001/2003 have an ecu issue that honda rectified, cause if you notice those are the years that typically have most of the problems. But at least now you know much more about the bike just like me from having this problem, good luck, ed

 

Very odd for you with the ground issue. The new ECU fixed that though right?

I think some of the problem is how hot these bikes run. Compared to a yamaha or suzuki they are like a fire between your legs...and heat is not good for ECU's or ignition systems.

 

Just thought Id share, heres the new cb1000....Im very happy with it.

2276 miles on it now. not bad for a 1995

Also my old 2000 gsxr 750..its probably my most missed bike. I wish I wouldve kept it longer, my riding skills improved alot and im sure I would get alot of satisfaction out of it these days. I took a toothbrush to that thing weekly, white wheels suck! Learned alot about bikes since then and it was really a GOOD bike. Good looking too.