Yeah, good call. I spent so much time working on my carbed bike I pretty much mastered it and then I bought the F4i... gotta start all over.

 

I am with you Tyler. I spent 5 years working in a small engine repair shop, carburetors were all I did and learned quite a bit. I too am starting over with the fuel injection! Ugh.

Luck Runs Out - I had received the bike with a secondary ECU because the previous owner though that may had been the problem. Changing them out made no difference. The second one was a AC model, so the only code it threw was 23 - for the o2 sensor. And this model being the 49 state model, of course didn't have that.

The original ECU only throws a code 2, which I believe is the MAP sensor. But it is intermittent. It doesn't really seem have anything to do with how the bike is running. The manual also states the bike should run normally even when the code for the map sensor is active.

Using the jumper method, is it possible that that method will give me different codes? Please excuse me if I have overlooked that. Thank you both.

Best,
Antonio

 

See, here's the problem with the MAP... the EFI system is a speed/ density system, so it needs the MAP to meter the fuel. Without that, it's like a mass air flow system without the MAF connected; the ECU has no idea how much air the engine is getting.

If the code is intermittent, it's quite possibly a wiring problem, so I'd start checking continuity of the wires while you wiggle them. Also, test the MAF sensor to see if it's good.

 

Hey Luck runs out,

Yes, like I said, code is intermittent, but bike almost always runs terrible. Thank for the explanation of the MAP and MAF sensor. Once I get back home I will check both the sensors and wiring as well. Can the MAF sensor be tested with a voltmeter as in the repair manual, or are their any other tests as well? Again, thanks so much for the help Luck.

Best,
Antonio

 

Thought I would throw this out there too. Yesterday during my ride out on the bike. The bike wasn't ready for it, but I couldn't wait any longer.

I made it a little over 12 miles on a single gallon of gas. So, this would shadow what lucky was saying about my air sensor, I am getting the gas I need, but maybe I am not getting enough air. Or could an injector stuck wide open.

Please feel free to throw me any ideas! Thanks so much everyone.

Best,
Antonio

 

I lol'd about the code thing luck xD

 

Yes, the MAF can be tested with a multimeter; your FSM should explain how to do so. Section 5-14, if memory serves me.

Regarding the stuck injector... Start with the MAF and go from there. If the MAF turns out to be all right, we can try other things.

 

Hey Luck,

Thank you for the response to that. I will check the MAP sensor. Just to be sure, my MAF(mass air flow) sensor is my MAP(manifold absolute pressure) sensor correct? I am sorry if I have overlooked this, I just wanted to be positive.

Spot on with the section in the FSM. Thanks so much, I also have help from the haynes repair manual. It seems as though it may be necessary for me to get the test wire harness.

I will hold off on my other thoughts until we check this bugger out. Again, thanks so much for your help Luck.

Best,
Antonio

 

Hey Luck,

Just wanted to let you know I did my research on the MAF and MAP sensor. I understand their placement and similar use now. I just didn't want to play ignorant and let ya do all the work! I will let you know how the testing goes, but if you have any pointers on that, that would be great, otherwise, I am using the manual and the haynes.

Best,
Antonio

 

A test wire harness might cost a grip... see if you can figure out which wires on the MAP would be the same as the harness and use paper clips to probe the weather- proof connections. In the manual, it mentions something about testing voltage in various conditions... see if you can trace the wires from the MAP sensor to whever they go and determine which wires you need to check for those tests.

Regarding the Haynes- while they're light years better than Chilton's, they're a waste of time compared to the FSM, especially concerning deep electrical diagnostics. Use it if you want, but all your info will be in the FSM, and if the two contradict each other, go with what the FSM says; after all, it was published by the people that designed the bike for the people paid to work on the bike...

Sorry to confuse you on the MAF/ MAP thing. They're two completely different sensors and are not used in the same system. A MAP is used in speed/ density system, where the ECU primarily looks at engine RPM and how much vacuum is present in the intake manifold (or pressure, if you think in absolut terms, or if it has a turbocharger). There are other things the ECU looks at, such as throttle position (TPS), engine temp and ignition timing, and it uses all that info to determine how long to hold the injector open for during an intake event. The MAP sensor measures how much vacuum is in the intake manifold.

Our bikes use a speed/ density system. From here on out, what I type doesn't pertain to our bikes at all, but is what we call in the military, "gee whiz info."

In a mass air flow system, everything is the same, but in place of the MAP, it uses a Mass Air Flow sensor. MAF's measure how the flow rate of the air the engine is ingesting. There's two different types of MAF sensors- vane and hot wire. A vane MAF (VMAF) is an archaic and restrictive, albeit extremely reliable sensor as it has a door on a spring that is pulled open by the rush of air being pulled into the engine. The more you open the throttle, the larger the volume of air is pulled in, and the further the VMAF opens up. As it opens, it turns a variable resistance potentiometer, and the ECU measures how much resistance the pot has, and that's how it determines how much air the engine is pulling in. It confirms this information with the RPM and TPS signals. A hot wire MAF (HWMAF) operates on the same principal of measuring the volume of air, but does so by means of a heated wire and a temperature sensor. The ECU runs a current through the wire to keep it at a certain temperature, and as the engine pulls air past the wire, it cools, so the ECU has to feed more current through the wire to keep it at a certain temp. As the engine revvs, more air is pulled in, and more current has to be run through the wire to keep it at a certain temp. The ECU measures the ammount of current going through the wire and uses that in conjunction with the TPS and RPM signals to determine how much fuel to give the engine.