Currently can't start the bike unless I jump it from my non running car, battery is 2 days old. The lights come on and my brights come on but when I hit the switch they don't have enough power to stay on. Unless its hooked up to a car battery. So the bike will run fine but when the normal headlights are on and you rev up the bike. The headlights get dimmer, then when your riding you can feel it sorta cut out after a while but once you hit the bright switch it rides normal again. Currently running a acerbis headlight and all this crap started when I put my speedo back on. I know the stator is fine because I put a new one in yesterday, battery is fine, and the starter. I replaced the r/r last season but i just looked at it and it kinda looks melted but then again I never got a new harness that was fried already. Both those parts I ordered as well I'm just trying to see what everyone's opinion is on a headlight switch acting as a kill switch

 

Main headlight circuit is tied into the r/r. Running on high beam uses a different circuit. sounds like the circuit is shorted out. Burnt wires can short to each other or to the frame. also explains lack of battery charging. Maybe installing speedo cut wire. The wire from head light back to the r/r and tailights is a solid green wire.

Here's a scan of the wiring for an F2. Headlight is at left, r/r at bottom when viewed properly.

 

Did you charge the battery after you bought it?
Batterys don't come charged.

 

I think most of your problem is the r/r. Since you've got one on order, just wait till it
comes in. Get it installed and then see where you are.

As far as what's going on...it sounds like the r/r is not putting out current when the
bike's rpm goes up. Since the ignition makes a higher demand, it's got to get the
current from somewhere. So the head-lights dim. Also, because of the low output,
the battery is not getting any current to charge, it's all going, to trying to keep the
engine running.

+1 on the stator replacement. That plus the new r/r should have your charging-system
in pretty good shape.

Since the r/r's connector is fried either, do a hard-wire, or replace the r/r's
connector(s) on the harness (my personal choice). Try this link, if you don't
have your own source. They ship fast, are relatively cheap and will get you
back to that "100% OEM"-state of goodness.

OEM-Type Bullet & Spade Electrical Connectors for 1960's through 1970's Japanese Vehicles... Bridgestone, Datsun, Hodaka, Honda, Kawasaki, Landcruiser, Suzuki, Tohatsu, VW, & Yamaha

Good luck, Ern

 

I believe it's the headlight ground, as well as the 2 headlight wires touching each other. I pulled the fuse for the headlights and it rode fine again battery charged and what not, ( original battery was bad so they gave me a free replacement) I'm tearing the headlights apart now and re doing the wires as well as the grounds. I'll keep you posted