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When i start my bike it acts like the clutch isnt pulled in

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Old 08-12-2011, 02:58 AM
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Angry When i start my bike it acts like the clutch isnt pulled in

Okay so i have a 1994 cbr f2 and it all started because i'm having overheating problems. For some stupid reason i got it into my head it might be my water pump so i decided to check that first and i pulled it out and after i took it out it was perfectly fine. so i put it back in put new oil in it, filled the radiator back up. After all this i started it up and it kept trying to go forward even though my clutch was pulled in, but after its started its fine. i'm kind of new at this whole do it myself thing but i'm kinda just scratching my head with this.
 
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Old 08-12-2011, 05:38 AM
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Is the clutch cable attached at both the lever and the motor case? Does it have a lot of slack in it if it is?
 
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Old 08-12-2011, 01:24 PM
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yeah it is thats why i'm so confused i didnt even touch anything on clutch...this is totally off subject but i go to boulder colorado every couple years i love that placehaha
 

Last edited by Dylan4380; 08-12-2011 at 01:42 PM.
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Old 08-12-2011, 02:30 PM
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yay colorado, yeah a cooling problem shouldn't have anything to do with your clutch.. it uses oil not coolant..they dont mix trust me. I agree with buickid sounds like you have to much slack on you clutch making it not work.

btw from my experience the only time a waterpump usually goes bad is when it looses its seal. coolant doesn't really do anything to the vanes in most cases. So if its bad you'll see a bunch of coolant leaking out the weephole otherwise your overheating could be a number of things like lean mixtures, bad ect sensor or air in the system which will eventually boil out anyways since it has a lower boiling pt. Also another thing with these f2's is they dont use ram air so the air is just sucked up from left over air thats already gone through a heat exchange via the radiator and air thats being heated additionally from the engine. Also if you have spark adv/detonation I believe that causes overheating.. anything thats similar to a misfire (failure to consume Hyrdocarbon and Oxygen) usually leads to high temperatures and vice versa (excessive HC's run cooler).
 

Last edited by coldflood; 08-12-2011 at 02:38 PM.
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Old 08-13-2011, 02:56 AM
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i was talking to someone today and they told me it could be my fan relay..if you havent noticed i'm not really mechanically inclined lol does that sound like it could be the problem?
 
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Old 08-13-2011, 03:00 AM
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depending on the humidity and temp.. yeah I suppose this falls victim to Occam's razor. Since these bikes dont use ram air if your fan whether it be relay or another fault could very likely be the cause. Usually if u look at the temp gauge and 3/4's full the fan should be on
 
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Old 08-14-2011, 04:05 AM
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yeah the fan didnt kick on until it was like right before the redline when i noticed it was super hot... well this is a stupid question i'm sure where exactly is that relay at?
 
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Old 08-14-2011, 05:24 AM
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was looking over the diagram in chapter 5 of the service manual and it doesn't look like theres a relay.. which is odd because most cars nowadays use relays in order to use low amp circuits to control high amp circuits. This is pure speculation, but It looks like the "switch" on section 5-6 of the owners manual is a Negative Coefficient Temperature (NCT) sensor that measures the temperature of the coolant. As the coolant gets warmer the sensors resistance decreases and and the computer or icm measures the change in vltg drop. if its colder there will be a bigger vltg drop since there'll be more resistance therefore the computer will sense less vltg. In the diagram it should be labeled #10. There are several things that could be wrong. It could a short to circuit, highly unlikely. You could have corrosion on a wire increasing the resistance so therefore the sensor will have to get warmer before actually showing the comp the right voltage. Or you can have a bad sensor or switch as they call it. Without a lookup chart to measure the sensors resistance values for temperature I would just go ahead and buy a new sensor or switch first and see if that fixes the problem... 37760-MT2-003 is the part number. Also apparently the sensor appears have an integrated thermostat so if thats stuck that could also cause overheating might as well kill to possible causes with one stone. OEM the part is 51 $ but im sure you could find one cheaper.
 

Last edited by coldflood; 08-14-2011 at 05:27 AM.
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Old 08-14-2011, 09:42 PM
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so should i just get a new thermostat and hope for the best haha?

and thanks for everyone who took time to help me out i really appreciate it
 
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