my throttle seems to stick and i don't think it has that aftermarket cruise control mode. but i'm not for sure

also my idle cable on the left side (at least i think it's an idle cable) does not move

could some one point me in the direction of a thread or either share some advice. I did try the search with different phrases but for the most part it just kept pulling the same threads though i was using different phrases

 

Most likely just lack of lubrication on both. You might want to disassemble the bike enough to remove the tank and airbox then disconnect the cables from the throttle assy, try soaking some wd40 or similar into the cables whilst holding the ends up high to get them moving again although prolonged failure to lubrication has probably caused internal damage in the cables in the form of wearing through the nylon tube in the cover and/or causing the wires in the cable to wear out and snap, making it stick. New cables aren't that expensive but thorough lubing might help. Same for the idle adjuster cable.

 

^^^^This. As well make sure your throttle cables are adjusted properly. If theyre not, they can also stick. But it's more than likely a lack throttle cable lubrication.

 

Last two things, make sure your throttle tube is clean. dirt and grime can build up between your throttle tube and handle bar that also make the throttle stick. A proper cleaning will address that problem. The second one is to make sure your handle bar is not bent. A bent bar will make the throttle stick also.

 

yeah my best friend passed away and i inherited the bike. i do know he layed it down and there are some very noticeable things that are cracked or crooked, Sighhhh. i'm in no super hurry to get it running but summer 2015 would be nice. Is there anyone (rather a state over) near Indianapolis on our forum that knows what there doing. I dont have great experience with stealerships and would rather pay a fellow member to teach me as this bike is getting back on it's feet.

 

Very sorry to hear about your friend, but glad you got the bike. I'm sure there is someone here that lives near you to give it a quick onceover and make a to do-list with you, but these bikes are no that difficult to work on. Get yourself a Haynes manual, download the Honda workshop manual from the net (you can print it but it's around 600 pages and mainly to be used to look at the "explosion pics") get yourself a decent camera and start up a build thread here. The F2 community is pretty tight and knowledgeable about our rides and love a few things more than to see a beaten up old warhorse being brought to it's feet. I'm building (well, own anyway) the Triumph Daytona project on my sig, when I ask at the triumph forums what a certain part is the answer usually either never comes or is "junk, toss it away and get a new bike"

Post a pic of a generic looking bolt with an odd head here and you will get

What it is
honda OEM part number
position on bike
torque rating
Link to a new one.

So, boldly dig into the bike, snap some pics and ask away, these guys look at a pic of your carb assembly and tell you're running a bit lean. The bike will be ready next summer guaranteed. Very few special tools are needed in the whole process.

 

If you do need a throttle tube, let me know, I have a few that should work for you.

 

Sorry to hear about your friend. That always sucks.

I'm up in Mpls, mn. I've rebuild a handful of F2's, some from boxes of parts. If you can post pics of exactly what your doing, it helps a ton. I'll add that F2 cables are finicky about how they are run under the airbox. The tank and airbox can restrict the cables movement. So make sure they are run the proper way down to the carbs and they haven't been rerouted or kinked.

As for the idle adjusment, it helps to open the throttle a bit and take the pressure off the adjuster, before trying to adjust it.

 

You all are a great help and motivational set of people. Now i can claim I know of two sites that have THE BEST member quality. Cbr forum and Ceg (contour enthusiast group)

 

Make sure the grip is not jammed against the starter/kill switch housing. That will cause it to drag. A little lube in there wouldnt hurt.