The double (or triple) nut trick seems to be working great. Unfortunately it is really hard to get a hold of M7 nuts in Sweden so I had to order them from the UK on eBay. Weird world. They should arrive any day now so I finally can move on.

Anyways, I've decided to try to customize her a bit. And with a bit I mean streetfight her a bit and try to get a rugged tracker look at the same time. I've ordered a round single headlight, and am looking for a good (cheap) handlebar conversion kit. I will also order a used tank and strip it of all paint and sand it down to get a solid metal look (and then coat it to protect it of course). Any ideas of a 1994 tank would fit the 1992 model (my guess is that it does)?

 

Yes... even an f3 tank would work.

 

Styrfäste 28,6 M12, 2st. - Biltema

Styrfäste 28,6, 2 st. - Biltema

Styrhöjare - Biltema

Styre, aluminium 28,6 MX - Biltema

...although with the oversized 28,6mm bar you cannot use any of your original switches or levers so I'd probly get just the brackets that can take a normal 22mm bar and get one of those, they have both fatbars and regulars, I don't know are there Motonets in Sweden but I've seen bars there that have a fat mid section and regular 22mm handles. Be prepared to also get longer brake lines and possibly longer cables too, the wiring might also need some added length.

 

Thanks, amigos!

Mattson, are you suggesting that I drill the top yoke to attach the mounts? Otherwise I don't see how I could do it without switching the yoke to a conversion kit one.

 

Well, that's the normal way people tend to do it. Just watch where you drill so you'll get a flat spot for the nuts. Probly easier to do with the top triple on a table. You could also buy one that already has the mounts (given they are available) but I don't see why pay yourself silly for it since it shouldn't be illegal or dangerous to drill it. Should be a pretty straight forward job since the top of the triple is pretty much flat.

 

Yeah, they are ridiculously expensive, those predrilled ones...

Maybe welding could be an option otherwise. I'll explore my options but you're right, Mattson, I was aiming for the bar that is fat in the middle section and progressively smaller at the ends. I guess that's one advantage to the conversion kits, that they usually come with longer brake lines and cables.

Thanks, kaveri Mattson!

 

Now I've never looked so I don't know but I've not either never seen a ready triple+lines+cables set for sale anywhere. It's not hard to do yourself and you can order colored brake lines if you want. Both the triple and the aftermarket legs are usually aluminum (or better yet some siluminum etc. alloy mix) that I would not feel comfortable to go welding. If you drill and bolt them in place they aren't going anywhere.

 

Fellow riders,

As usual I have a few questions that I know I will get some help with here, but first I would like to share a thing with you. After a seemingly long (although warmer than usual) winter in Sweden where I've mostly been riding my KTM, I finally put The Beast back together this saturday and went for a few nice hours of riding.



Amongst other things I have replaced my calipers and although I thought I had done a thorough job bleeding and refilling the system, the brakes are still spongy and give me the occasional scare at intersections. Must look into that. Hence the following question. I am about to rebuild her into something else, like butterfly that comes out of its shell. One of the many many modifications will be a new master cylinder. Any suggestions to a nice, good looking cheap one? I've been looking into several ones from China on eBay but I'm not sure about the fit and the whole pumplike thing. Any recommendations?

I am also about to order a handlebar conversion kit, either LSL with its fork tube clamps or ABM with its top yoke adapter. Not really sure which would give most bang for the buck.

On another (side)note, I have signed up for a welding course in the end of April. Just wanted to share. After that, things will be a breeze I hope. No more bolts rusted shut, no more "cannot find the brackets I want", no more "if only I could weld, then this would have been solved a long time ago". Yey me for investing in myself and my passion!

 

Congrats on the welding course, a good choice! Should probly go for one myself, got the machine but not the skills...

You might not have to replace the brake cylinder, there just might be some stubborn air bubbles stilll lodged in, they can be a pain to get out. I don't remember have I told you this trick before cause I have told it to so many, but you might wanna go to the local pharmacy to get the biggest syringe you can buy (probly can get one for marinating meat from a MAXI ICA), then go get a piece of clear tubing, attach the tube to the bleed nipple, open it half a turn and with the syringe filled with fresh brake fluid, push it backwards into the system (be careful to not overfill the reservoir, the lid must naturally be open and the fluid box pretty much empty. As it is a double caliper system, repeat on both sides. Also you might wanna tap the calipers a little with a rubber mallet or so to lure the bubbles out. If that doesn't help either, replace the master cylinder (or rebuild it with new seals)

No info about the ABM kit, at least here the price of anything that says LSL makes my eyes water...

 

Mattson, actually the syringe trick is all I use nowadays thanks to you . I use the one from the kit for refilling fork oil that you find at Biltema. I have come to the conclusion that there must be some little ****-bubble left somewhere. The tapping was a great idea, will do that immediately. I am actually looking forward to installing a handlebar since that will force me to invest in new brake lines (I will go for a two-line) since I want a more custom look.

Both ABM and LSL make my wallet cry at night...