SAFE Portable Battery Jump-Starter for F2?
#1
SAFE Portable Battery Jump-Starter for F2?
As stated in concurrent discussion topic, I'm deciding on if I should switch to something beside the OEM recommended Yuasa battery. Was stranded for almost 4 hours a couple of nights ago, had to get flat-bed towed.
I carry my multimeter onboard, battery was at 12:39. In short, no start possible.
Once home, been bench-testing the battery and it's dying. Went from 13+v right off tender charge to 12:54v sitting on counter in less than 12 hours.
But I'd like to avoid what happened the other night if/whenever it should arise again.
So I've looked at some portable jump starters and it's crucial i avoid frying the electrical system - very costly to repair. As far as I know, one has to get these two specs absolutely right in portable jump starter:
1. The Amperage ("A")
2. The Milliamp Hours ("mAh")
But the specs per brand and models are all over the freakin' place. I have NO clue as to what would be an effective - and - SAFE one to get with the right specs in these two areas.2. The Milliamp Hours ("mAh")
Also many of these are multi-volt so as to jumpstart a 24 or higher voltage vehicle such a car or boat, but also include 12 volt. I ONLY need 12 volt.
While I'm tempted to stay with my usual AGM Yuasa, if I decide to try gel or even Lithium, those specs can get even more critical as far as I understand it.
(And, yeah, affordability matters. Fixed disability, etc. income only. Can't afford a car. My F2 = my only personal wheeled freedom. )
Please let me know. Input from mechanic and/or very knowledgeable F2 rider preferred. I cannot afford to screw up on this.
Thanks.
Last edited by Soniclight; 11-04-2017 at 08:39 AM.
#2
You're talking about carrying around something? Why not just make sure your charging system and battery aren't on their last legs?
Discounting that, any of the units that are designed for a 12V system should be fine. The differences in amperage and mAH are two sides of the same coin, one implying maximum short-term current delivery, and the other longevity under a moderate current drain. The current delivered to the bike when 'jumping' will only be what the 'failing' battery and the starting system demand...a battery (including something like a 'jump' battery) do not 'force' current into an electrical system. The system places a demand on the battery, and it's then up to the battery to either make that demand or not.
Edit: I did a bit of reading to see if there were something I was missing, and I did discover that there is some concern that jumping a bike from a power source capable of lots more current than the average MC battery might be problematic. As a mechanic and an electronics engineering tech, I'm unclear as to any potential damage to the bike other than the possibility of smoking a starter if you decided to crank the thing for minutes on end (with the understanding that, if jumping a bike from a car or truck, that vehicle should NOT be running). I also see warnings about damage to the bikes' ECU, but that seems far-fetched (if someone want's to explain to me how jumping with a big car battery might damage the electronics of a bike, I'm all ears). All this said, I've not, in 40+ years of owning and riding motorcycles, ever jump-started one (save for the old-fashioned push start).
Discounting that, any of the units that are designed for a 12V system should be fine. The differences in amperage and mAH are two sides of the same coin, one implying maximum short-term current delivery, and the other longevity under a moderate current drain. The current delivered to the bike when 'jumping' will only be what the 'failing' battery and the starting system demand...a battery (including something like a 'jump' battery) do not 'force' current into an electrical system. The system places a demand on the battery, and it's then up to the battery to either make that demand or not.
Edit: I did a bit of reading to see if there were something I was missing, and I did discover that there is some concern that jumping a bike from a power source capable of lots more current than the average MC battery might be problematic. As a mechanic and an electronics engineering tech, I'm unclear as to any potential damage to the bike other than the possibility of smoking a starter if you decided to crank the thing for minutes on end (with the understanding that, if jumping a bike from a car or truck, that vehicle should NOT be running). I also see warnings about damage to the bikes' ECU, but that seems far-fetched (if someone want's to explain to me how jumping with a big car battery might damage the electronics of a bike, I'm all ears). All this said, I've not, in 40+ years of owning and riding motorcycles, ever jump-started one (save for the old-fashioned push start).
Last edited by EchoWars; 11-22-2017 at 06:24 PM. Reason: Moe info
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