Replacing on/off starter switch
Those you should be able to squeeze the tab just below the metal plate with one hand.
Then wiggle the connector side to side while pulling down.
Sometimes it helps to hold the top part in place with your other hand.
Then push up first, this helps the tab unlock, then pull down and wiggle.
You might also be able to push on the top part of the tab with your finger to get it to release.
These usually aren't too hard to get apart, trick is to get the tab to unlock first, then pull.
As long as you have those connectors apart, I'd put some dielectric grease in them.
Prevents corrosion and they'll come apart easier next time too.
Then wiggle the connector side to side while pulling down.
Sometimes it helps to hold the top part in place with your other hand.
Then push up first, this helps the tab unlock, then pull down and wiggle.
You might also be able to push on the top part of the tab with your finger to get it to release.
These usually aren't too hard to get apart, trick is to get the tab to unlock first, then pull.
As long as you have those connectors apart, I'd put some dielectric grease in them.
Prevents corrosion and they'll come apart easier next time too.
Update: got the red electric clips loose. completely bypassed the whole clipon removal process. removed the gas tank instead and air cleaner, and loosened the throttle cable bolts to get the needed slack on the cables. Once I got the needed slack everything was zip bam boom. done. Thank you for your support with my project. Now onto the next...
While I wait for my front fearings to arrive from China, I am doing much needed maintenance.
Going to do chain inspection and cleaning.
What cleaner do you recommend and what kind of chain lube do you suggest?
While I wait for my front fearings to arrive from China, I am doing much needed maintenance.
Going to do chain inspection and cleaning.
What cleaner do you recommend and what kind of chain lube do you suggest?
This is an area of personal preference. There are lots of ways to go on this.
Oring chains are lubed and sealed internally. So any chain lube is mostly to prevent rust and sprocket wear.
And you probably don't have to worry about rust. It really doesn't do much for the chain itself.
I've got a dirt/mud driveway. I gave up cleaning my chain and/or bike a long time ago.
It would only be clean for a day at most.
For chain lube I've been using belray superclean. It's a very thin lube.
It dries quickly and kind of flakes away over time, taking dirt with it, so the chain stays fairly clean by itself.
So my normal routine to just spray the chain every 300-500 miles or so and keep riding.
If you're going to clean the chain, just don't use any harsh chemicals that can damage the rubber oring.
That's what kills chains quickly.
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