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Rear shock swap/adjustment options

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Old Mar 15, 2011 | 06:54 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by jtkardel
First off, I want to thank you both for your suggestions and I have to investigate them in more detail. However, I understand you guys hate each other but I'm just looking for some honest answers and some tips from others who have pushed their F2s or F3s to the point of overwhelming the weak *** rear suspension and then solved that problem. If y'all want to continue your catfight, be considerate and take it to email.
You are right, too bad some people can't hold off their childish tendencies. Not only do some people have to start ****, they have to have the last word too lol. Sorry for pissin around on your thread.

I DID gloss over stuff as mr tough guy pointed out, only because I don't assume everyone to be clueless. If I am being vague, ask me to specify. Vague advice isn't bad, its just vague.

To get specific, it comes down to how hard and often you plan on tracking the bike vs street riding, and your budget. Doing linkage mods and swapping is the cheapest upgrade, but will leave you in your current position in due time... sooner if you learn fast and ride hard. Pissing with your geometry is also the last step you should take, when you have experience, and your suspension is already properly set up, which is why I do not advocate OEM swapping.

An "outdated" fox shock properly set up will be a gigantic difference that you will not out perform until you are ready to race competitively, and because you stuck with an F2 shock, you won't be altering your geometry.

When you are experienced enough and know what you are getting yourself into, then I can advocate geometry changes. Generally, race set up F2s have the forks raised and the rear jacked up to give it a faster turn in. This has other consequences such as the rear coming around on hard braking or cornering.

Honestly, if you want good advice on racing/tracking join a forum geared toward racing, not street riding, and you will get much better advice there. Take care and ride safe.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2011 | 09:03 PM
  #12  
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Ok thanks, that was what I was looking for. I know enough about geometry to know what direction to go in, if not how far. Anyways, getting clearance is the first goal right now, geometry be damned! Just kidding, I want more clearance with a more aggressive geometry set up. I forgot to say i have stock tire sizes on it. I think putting a 70 series on the front and raising the rear around 12-15 mm (the 70 takes the front up 12.7 mm above stock) would give me loads of clearance and keep fairly stock rake and weight rare front/rear to play around with. that means I need a shock around 310mm to make it right (accounting for shock angle)' with hopefully +/- 5 mm adjustability. If gained 13mm of clearance front and rear I could always play with fork height. I guess i need something nice in the rear though.

Dissevered, what are good race forums? I need to keep this bike streeetable because it is a commuter. I cant track it yet, im still saving up for that. But with good damping and the right springs, I know I can make my F2 much more aggressive geometry wise and keep ot comfy. They're pretty mild by today's standards. Its ridiculously stable at highspeed, I have a lot of stability in brakeing and straightline acceleration to trade in for more agility, while keeping it stable enough for the commute.
 

Last edited by jtkardel; Mar 15, 2011 at 09:08 PM. Reason: Forgot some stuff
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Old Mar 15, 2011 | 10:12 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by jtkardel
Ok thanks, that was what I was looking for. I know enough about geometry to know what direction to go in, if not how far. Anyways, getting clearance is the first goal right now, geometry be damned! Just kidding, I want more clearance with a more aggressive geometry set up. I forgot to say i have stock tire sizes on it. I think putting a 70 series on the front and raising the rear around 12-15 mm (the 70 takes the front up 12.7 mm above stock) would give me loads of clearance and keep fairly stock rake and weight rare front/rear to play around with. that means I need a shock around 310mm to make it right (accounting for shock angle)' with hopefully +/- 5 mm adjustability. If gained 13mm of clearance front and rear I could always play with fork height. I guess i need something nice in the rear though.

Dissevered, what are good race forums? I need to keep this bike streeetable because it is a commuter. I cant track it yet, im still saving up for that. But with good damping and the right springs, I know I can make my F2 much more aggressive geometry wise and keep ot comfy. They're pretty mild by today's standards. Its ridiculously stable at highspeed, I have a lot of stability in brakeing and straightline acceleration to trade in for more agility, while keeping it stable enough for the commute.
Did you put on aftermarket rear sets or risers? obviously that is your first thing, as already stated by jesse. Just making sure because that is where your clearance issues are first taken care of. Its easier to move parts up than it is to mess with the gains and sacrifices of geometry changes.

PMed you...
 
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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 12:57 PM
  #14  
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I just picked up a Fox Twin clicker on ebay that came off a 96 GSXR 750 - cause I realized that the Twin Clickers were basically all the same bodies, configured different ways to fit different bikes.

I contacted Jamie Daugherty @ http://www.daughertymotorsports.com/ - and verified all of this with him before I bid on a shock I knew wouldn't fit my bike. He said he can either take the Gixxer one and rebuild/reconfigure, or he also had a couple of F2/F3 TC's on hand that he could rebuild instead and basically swap with me since the gixxer shock is something he could resell for a Gixxer rider.

shipped the shock to him yesterday - hopefully I'll have something new from him in a week or 2.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 03:15 PM
  #15  
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Ok, I've got the rearset risers on the way. I think I'm going to make a dummy shock to play around with geometry statically and actually measure the changes so I can know what rear ride height I want and I can buy the rear shock I want. I'm going to a 120/70 up front so I have some more ride height options and better profiles to play with up front. I have a lot of auto kinematics knowledge and a fair bit of knowledge with motos setup and a book or two to look at, so I'm not to scared. I'm either going to get a twin clicker for cheap and spring/valve it for aggressive street/slow to medium track riding or find a good priced turn of the century R6 unit (they're like $20 and are the 305-310mm I'm sure I want) and see if it can at all work. Anything has to better than the crappy F3 thing I've got!

Thanks for all the help, and I end up getting an old fox, i'll look up Jamie Daugherty. BTW, do you know what he wanted for a built + sprung fox? I know it'd probably cost me around 550-600 all told if I get a good deal on the shock to valve and spring it.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 07:03 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by jtkardel
Ok, I've got the rearset risers on the way. I think I'm going to make a dummy shock to play around with geometry statically and actually measure the changes so I can know what rear ride height I want and I can buy the rear shock I want. I'm going to a 120/70 up front so I have some more ride height options and better profiles to play with up front. I have a lot of auto kinematics knowledge and a fair bit of knowledge with motos setup and a book or two to look at, so I'm not to scared. I'm either going to get a twin clicker for cheap and spring/valve it for aggressive street/slow to medium track riding or find a good priced turn of the century R6 unit (they're like $20 and are the 305-310mm I'm sure I want) and see if it can at all work. Anything has to better than the crappy F3 thing I've got!

Thanks for all the help, and I end up getting an old fox, i'll look up Jamie Daugherty. BTW, do you know what he wanted for a built + sprung fox? I know it'd probably cost me around 550-600 all told if I get a good deal on the shock to valve and spring it.
what rearset risers did you get - I need some that will move me back a good bit and up a little - I'm 6' tall and need a little more stretch on my pegs.


I think he quoted me in the $165 range for the rebuild/revalve/respring if he could reuse the spring I sent or if he had the right value spring around he said. Otherwise he would have to order a new spring, and that would push it up about $215.

I got the Twin clicker for $135 on ebay, in great looking condition - the Gixxer owner listed it 4 times with a lower Buy it now each time. I finally jumped at the 4th reduction. I wasn't finding TC's for the F2/F3 even in junk shape for less than $300, and I figured this way I can get the whole rebuilt unit for <$400.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 10:03 PM
  #17  
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F4i ones apparently bolt up, so that's what I ordered.

https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-600f2...e2/#post989988

Here's a listing. I want the rearsets this guy makes, but I have my priorities! Shocks and tires first!

Honda CBR F4 F4i Silver Rear Set Riser Plates Rearset - eBay (item 320305674374 end time Apr-16-11 14:43:04 PDT)
 

Last edited by jtkardel; Mar 17, 2011 at 10:03 PM. Reason: misspellings
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 11:19 PM
  #18  
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Yep - I have a F4 shock on the shelf here was going to go that route.

F4 will raise your tail about 2" over stock. some people have said you can then put a 1" lowering link in. Others state the lowering link doesn't work - some of it may be trial and error, and fabricate what you need.

Make sure to take pics, and take measurements before and after.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 03:39 PM
  #19  
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Yeah, I decided against the F4/F4i because of it's length. It's like 330mm, and I hear from the guys who have raced these things that much more than 310 will put you on your ***! I don't want want to change the motion ratio around too much. The longer shock will do that anyways, but I'd prefer to keep the rocker stock. I'm still checking fleaBay for a deal on some nice shock. You sure stole that twin clicker!
 
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 04:14 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by adrenalnjunky
F4 will raise your tail about 2" over stock. some people have said you can then put a 1" lowering link in. Others state the lowering link doesn't work - some of it may be trial and error, and fabricate what you need.
Adding the F4i shock adds 2"~. The vortex lowering link will not work with the f4i rear shock as it hits the shock.
 
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