I've been following the service manual (link below) for this no spark at all plugs on pages 166 (16-3) and pg 169 (16-6)

http://www.stephygee.com/F2manual.zip

This is what I've come up with so far using my Innova 3300 multimeter:

• Connectors are fine, they're not loose
• When checking battery vltg between green and black and white w/ T-pins it came up with .02 volts on the 20 range it should measure 12.6 I'd imagine
• Resistance measure on Pulse Generator or Stator measured 36 ohms on the 200 scale

When I tried measuring the Stator resistance a few months earlier it read a within spec but I believe I just kept holding the meter there until I got the spec up into the resistance I wanted. Correct me if im wrong but because its on such a low resistance range the actual heat from the vltg going through the wire will actually increase the resistance? If this is the case would an auto-ranging meter say for instance a fluke prevent this from occurring?

The other thing going through my mind is when I had a buddy come over a couple weeks ago we took the main connector off (so that we could reattach the wires and jump the starter that way) and used a makeshift fuse out of reminents of a cotter pin I think to bridge the gap and tried jumping the fuse that way. Which preempts my next question for the relay to energize wouldn't it be only necessary to jump power to the two wires or coil wrapping around the magnet? (I'm basing this off the electrical diagram on pg. 190 or (19-1).

The reason I ask this is I'm ultimately afraid that I may have damaged the relay and I am unsure as to which terminals to jump to get it to click.

Thanks in advance for any replies.

 

Stator and switch?

I'm not really sure what you're asking - I just checked both of those pages in the manual - neither mention anything about checking the stator resistance. If you can't get the bike started - the stator isn't going to be the problem - a charged battery will crank and run the bike just fine even with a dead stator, until the battery pulls down below the ~10 volt range.

The pulse generator should be registering 460-580 ohm according to the manual on page 16-9 - so if it was only showing 36 ohm as you state - there's one big problem to check.

What switch are you testing - you didn't mention.

why would you make a jumper/fuse out of a cotter pin? Just use a fuse of proper amperage rating. If the reason there is no fuse is that the fuse keeps popping, then DON'T PUT ANYTHING BACK IN THERE. There's a reason that line is fused. It's to protect the firing and electrical components in the wiring harness. Jumping it will do nothing but potentially melt wiring, switchgear and electronics.

 

I was under the misconception that the stator and the ignition pulse generator were the same. I thought maybe the secondary ign used like a cdi unit that the stator would energize. But what your saying is that the stator is part of ignition system which means its like an alternator.

Anyways what I was referring to in the manual was measuring the pulse generator resistance.

Also the switch I meant was the kill on/off switch, I did all the connection tests on that are near the end of the manual guess ill do them again but basically the push button just stopped working one day.

As far as the fuse goes, ya i know better, but the guy who was at my house didn't... the only reason I didn't stop him was because he's my co-worker and I didn't really want to bruise his ego (he drives a Harley). I've bought extra fuses since then.