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Most important mods for a track day on a budget

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  #31  
Old 07-06-2011, 05:17 PM
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Default Huge update!

So it's been a while since I updated. Not really good at documenting the work that I have been doing so thought a picture story might be sensible. This is the current state of affairs in my garage (MESSY! )

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Bought myself some new rubber Pirelli Diablo Rosso Corsas which are supposedly great for both track and road use £175 delivered (fit myself)

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DID chain and JT sprockets. (Rear sprocket is off for fitting new tyre) Have altered the gearing to -1 sprocket on front and +1 sprocket on rear. £82 delivered (fit myself)

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Picked up a bargain single seat tail unit in fibre glass, little bit ugly looking but it will do a good job of looking professional on the track days!

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Fitted the 'f4i' shock. Attached the reservoir up on the subframe on the left hand side using a couple of cable ties and some rubber from an old grip.

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Brake calipers have been rebuilt with new seals. Bit of a pain getting the pistons out but got there in the end. As you can see I am very efficient using the toothbrush to both clean the pistons and then hold them in place as I pumped the other pistons out. Note also the bike 'stand'.

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Unfortunately this is the second rebuild on the front calipers. The slot where the dust seal is seated (despite being thoroughly cleaned) is out of shape and caused the dust seals to break. I have decided to not use any dust seals and clean the calipers out twice yearly. There shouldn't be too much dust on the track riding anyway!

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On to the forks. These are the FN forks that were on the bike as stock. I have completely stripped them and flushed with new oil. I will take the lowers from these.

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And put the uppers from these FT forks in to the lower stanchion. Well thats the plan anyway!



So you are now up to date with whats going on, hope you have enjoyed reading and I will make sure to update again once bike is complete!



QUESTION TIME!

When working on the newer FT forks I have come across two problems.

1) When undoing the allen bolt at the bottom of the fork, the 'damping component' (longest bit in photo above) is turning as well and I can't figure out a way to grip it. Would rebuilding the fork stop the internal components spinning? This problem is only on the one fork, the other fork has been fine (pictured above) and I have removed the bolt and thus internal components.

2) On removing the internal components and dust seal I now have to remove the old oil seal. I know usually this is just a task of pulling the uppers and lowers apart until the seal gives way. On the one stripped FT fork no matter how much force I am applying to seperate it will not give way. Any suggestions?


Many thanks if you have read all this way. Ride safe
 
  #32  
Old 07-07-2011, 05:40 AM
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Will have to give the toothbrush methood a go still not tryed attack the front brake since last time lol been busy playing find the non rusted part lol
 
  #33  
Old 07-07-2011, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Douglas_1987
Will have to give the toothbrush methood a go still not tryed attack the front brake since last time lol been busy playing find the non rusted part lol
Haha yeh I have been playing that game for weeks! You aren't far from me mate if there is anything I can help with give me a shout. I have learnt so much about these bikes and now have all the tools to get most things sorted.


Update! Forks issues both now resolved after lots of swearing Bike should be on the road Tuesday got a busy weekend with the girlfriends birthday
 
  #34  
Old 07-08-2011, 02:24 PM
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Cool stuff.
 
  #35  
Old 09-20-2011, 04:23 PM
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Would like to thank you all for the help. Took the bike around the local track and to say I am happy is a huge understatement. I had so much fun and got moved up from the novice to intermediate group

I took some video footage

Linky 1
Linky 2

And managed to not only grind the foot pegs but also got the crash bung grinded and thats without crashing just lean angle I promise!
 
  #36  
Old 09-20-2011, 04:31 PM
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You're dragging your frame sliders while turning, with the F4i raising the rear???

Post a picture of you in a turn, there's something wrong with that, although it probably relates to form.
 
  #37  
Old 09-21-2011, 05:14 AM
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Originally Posted by JesseAwesome
You're dragging your frame sliders while turning, with the F4i raising the rear???

Post a picture of you in a turn, there's something wrong with that, although it probably relates to form.
Unfortunately there was no photographer there as it's only a small track so I have no pictures of me on the cbr as yet.
I have come to the conclusion that the shock is from an F3 and was wrongly advertised on ebay I have begun the search to find an f4i shock and will fit it asap.

Here's a picture of my form on my other bike (orange street triple) I realise it's a different bike and riding position but can you spot any errors here?



Looking at it I don't think I hang off as far on the STR as I do on the CBR but I won't be able to tell until I get some images of the CBR on track.
Also, if you watch the video I am not taking the correct lines through corners as I am too busy passing people
 
  #38  
Old 09-21-2011, 11:38 AM
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If that's you on the orange bike you're doing okay for form, much better than the guy ridding crossed up in front of you!

You're Hanging off pretty good, butt is off the seat, etc etc. You're a fair bit too upright though, you got the dirt bike elbows going on (elbows in on sport bikes, push forward not DOWN) and you need to anchor onto the tank with your outside elbow (which you can't do with them up) along with outside leg. (EDIT: This may be attributed to the street triples ergonomics!)

Try this exercise: Get your friends to hold your bike upright for you, or put it on some really sturdy stands. Get into position to hang off the bike like you would in a turn. Try this once for a left hander, and once for a right hander. Once in that position, just simply let go with your hands. If you fall to the ground or get unsettled on the bike, your anchors points were incorrect!


(Taken from a few dozen different books on the topic, also... don't try this street kiddies, hanging off to far in the street will get you worked.)
 

Last edited by JesseAwesome; 09-21-2011 at 11:42 AM.
  #39  
Old 09-21-2011, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by higgy2011
Also, if you watch the video I am not taking the correct lines through corners as I am too busy passing people
Oh yeah, and I just caught this statement. I didn't see a link to any video, however... if you're passing people with enough frequency it's disrupting the best flow for the track, grab an instructor and ask for a review to move up to the next group. While a harder group won't be as complimentary to your ego (passing everyone does feel pretty rad) you'll be able to focus better as you aren't passing Susy Fat Chick on her BMW K1200RS sport touring mini van, or people with as bad a form as the guy on the bike in front of you!
 
  #40  
Old 09-21-2011, 02:29 PM
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Many thanks for the input Jesse
I think you're right about the STR, the ergonomics are very different as the bike has a very upright riding position where as the CBR with the rearset risers is a bit more sporty.

If you look in my first post regarding this trackday you will find two links labelled linky 1 and linky 2.

They did move me up from the novice group to the intermediate group but I passed everyone in the intermediate group too. Perhaps the CBR is just too good for them Cheers for the exercise I will ask a few mates to check it out with me. I did actually see something on youtube getting people to do that. Goes to show the importance of riding position.

I seriously am considering selling the street triple and concentrating all of my efforts and cash into track riding. There are too many police in the UK trying to catch you out on the road...not that I would do anything naughty
 
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