HID Malfunction
I just installed an HID kit on my F2 and it just keeps tripping... the issue is that when the bike comes to a stop it turns back on but as soon i accelarate it goes off...
When I plugged it into the battery it was fine but the light was dim and but it kept draining the battery...
As soon as I plug it into the generator it brightens up but keeps going off... So I know that the Ballast is not the issue here...
Maybe the generator is giving off a lot of current when I accelarate or some other issue... and if that is the case then can I put like an adaptor or something to streamline the current so it gives off just the right amount to the ballast...
Please help.
When I plugged it into the battery it was fine but the light was dim and but it kept draining the battery...
As soon as I plug it into the generator it brightens up but keeps going off... So I know that the Ballast is not the issue here...
Maybe the generator is giving off a lot of current when I accelarate or some other issue... and if that is the case then can I put like an adaptor or something to streamline the current so it gives off just the right amount to the ballast...
Please help.
what hid kit are you running?
My understanding is that the ballast provides constant current as long as there's enough direct current provided to keep it within its limits.
If your charging system were overcharging, I would think you would be able to see it in every standard bulb on the bike, or it would be playing havoc on the electronics.
I'm assuming you ran your primary power for the ballast directly to the battery. Where/how did you ground it? A weak ground could cause what you're describing.
Also check the battery voltage while riding it since that's the situation you're seeing the problem. I'd rig up some leads straight from the batt to a voltmeter. Can you duplicate it if you sit there and just rev the bike while in neutral? If not secure the meter to the cluster or top of the tank and take it down some low traffic roads watching the output.
If the ballast itself isn't an issue (I've seen plenty of bad ones) I''d think it's prolly only 1 of 3 things:
1 - weak/intermittent ground or other wiring connection.
2 - Charging system issue overcharging the battery beyond the upper operating limit of the ballast. (Serious implications there for the rest of the bike's electronics - prolly losing a R/R.)
3- Your battery and possibly alternator is taking a crap on you. When idling the electrical demand is low enough that the charging system can keep up with the bike, but underway the ignition needs more power and is bypassing the stator's output and pulling the battery down to a point where it drops below the ballast's lower cutoff.
I'd check your charging system either way
My understanding is that the ballast provides constant current as long as there's enough direct current provided to keep it within its limits.
If your charging system were overcharging, I would think you would be able to see it in every standard bulb on the bike, or it would be playing havoc on the electronics.
I'm assuming you ran your primary power for the ballast directly to the battery. Where/how did you ground it? A weak ground could cause what you're describing.
Also check the battery voltage while riding it since that's the situation you're seeing the problem. I'd rig up some leads straight from the batt to a voltmeter. Can you duplicate it if you sit there and just rev the bike while in neutral? If not secure the meter to the cluster or top of the tank and take it down some low traffic roads watching the output.
If the ballast itself isn't an issue (I've seen plenty of bad ones) I''d think it's prolly only 1 of 3 things:
1 - weak/intermittent ground or other wiring connection.
2 - Charging system issue overcharging the battery beyond the upper operating limit of the ballast. (Serious implications there for the rest of the bike's electronics - prolly losing a R/R.)
3- Your battery and possibly alternator is taking a crap on you. When idling the electrical demand is low enough that the charging system can keep up with the bike, but underway the ignition needs more power and is bypassing the stator's output and pulling the battery down to a point where it drops below the ballast's lower cutoff.
I'd check your charging system either way
what hid kit are you running?
My understanding is that the ballast provides constant current as long as there's enough direct current provided to keep it within its limits.
If your charging system were overcharging, I would think you would be able to see it in every standard bulb on the bike, or it would be playing havoc on the electronics.
I'm assuming you ran your primary power for the ballast directly to the battery. Where/how did you ground it? A weak ground could cause what you're describing.
Also check the battery voltage while riding it since that's the situation you're seeing the problem. I'd rig up some leads straight from the batt to a voltmeter. Can you duplicate it if you sit there and just rev the bike while in neutral? If not secure the meter to the cluster or top of the tank and take it down some low traffic roads watching the output.
If the ballast itself isn't an issue (I've seen plenty of bad ones) I''d think it's prolly only 1 of 3 things:
1 - weak/intermittent ground or other wiring connection.
2 - Charging system issue overcharging the battery beyond the upper operating limit of the ballast. (Serious implications there for the rest of the bike's electronics - prolly losing a R/R.)
3- Your battery and possibly alternator is taking a crap on you. When idling the electrical demand is low enough that the charging system can keep up with the bike, but underway the ignition needs more power and is bypassing the stator's output and pulling the battery down to a point where it drops below the ballast's lower cutoff.
I'd check your charging system either way
My understanding is that the ballast provides constant current as long as there's enough direct current provided to keep it within its limits.
If your charging system were overcharging, I would think you would be able to see it in every standard bulb on the bike, or it would be playing havoc on the electronics.
I'm assuming you ran your primary power for the ballast directly to the battery. Where/how did you ground it? A weak ground could cause what you're describing.
Also check the battery voltage while riding it since that's the situation you're seeing the problem. I'd rig up some leads straight from the batt to a voltmeter. Can you duplicate it if you sit there and just rev the bike while in neutral? If not secure the meter to the cluster or top of the tank and take it down some low traffic roads watching the output.
If the ballast itself isn't an issue (I've seen plenty of bad ones) I''d think it's prolly only 1 of 3 things:
1 - weak/intermittent ground or other wiring connection.
2 - Charging system issue overcharging the battery beyond the upper operating limit of the ballast. (Serious implications there for the rest of the bike's electronics - prolly losing a R/R.)
3- Your battery and possibly alternator is taking a crap on you. When idling the electrical demand is low enough that the charging system can keep up with the bike, but underway the ignition needs more power and is bypassing the stator's output and pulling the battery down to a point where it drops below the ballast's lower cutoff.
I'd check your charging system either way
going to get it changed to another one... As when we checked with the voltometer at high speed the turn signals would just stop blinking and become brighter so and the current that is flowing is around 16v being quite a lot.
the kit is named 'bosch' customized the headlight projector to fit two bulbs one halogen on the low setting and another for the HID bulb... now just looking for an HID projector from either an Accord to further customize it for better quality light and stop blinding people in front of me...
cheers!
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