So the bad news was the replacement of the $12 dollar oil seal requires the engine be dropped out of the bike and the case split open. Of course on a 20 year old motorcycle with 33K miles there are other concerns that come in play once it's opened up. What kind of shape are the internals going to be in and what else will need attention. Fortunately in my case we're in good shape with exception of the rod and main bearings which are going to need replacement. I have a trusted mechanic doing the work for me while I'm on the road. He used to race an F2 so this is nostalgic for him. Anyway, I decided to replace a couple of additional items while the bike is being serviced so there's new Michelin P-3's, Driven sprockets (going back to stock 15/43) and a EK gold chain. Should be ready next week just in time for 5 months of endless Oregon rain.

Here's the oil seal which came out in 2 pieces. It was trashed.


Here's a pic of the internals and a close up of the bearing scuff. The crank has no grooves and looks pretty good.

 

That's a crap one man, I know what its like, my bike got about the same on the clock and my bearings are are also in need of replacing. Good luck with the bike hope she's up and running for the good weather

 

Hate to break it to you, but you did not need to drop the engine.

I had the same problem, 30 minute job.

This is how I did mine.

http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/CounterShaftSealFAQ.htm

 

I've put this in the other post to.
I had a look at the seal being replaced, that seal doesn't seem to have the lip that the f2 seal has, that might damage the new seal. Anyway thats just my 2 cents

 

Fffffffffff. Ouch!
Want a bag f salt to rub into the wound too?

At least he'll have nice new shells in the mains and big ends. That's something to be cheery about.

Hind sight! Worth twice its weight in gold!

 

It works. My buddy is a wrench, knows Hondas inside and out.

This is how he does it, except instead of screws, he uses a dental tool to hook the seal and pull it out.

 

This is not correct for the F2. I'm told, but can't confirm, that on later Honda models the design was changed and the seal could be replaced without splitting the case. The F2 seal has a lip on the backside that presses into a recessed groove in the case itself. While you might be able to remove the seal by cutting, pulling and ripping the thing out there is no way in hell you're going to get a new one in place without damaging it. Take a look at the transmission counter shaft diagram below and it shows the lip on the seal. I've seen the actual seal too and it has a lip on it. The seal will not fit over the countershaft and through the case opening unless it was modified and glued in place. You say you did had the same problem but you link to a BMW single enduro site for the procedure. I just don't see how you accomplished this.

 

The BMW link was one that somone here gave me.

I too read the manual and had started dropping the engine. I also had concerns about the lip on the new seal.

My friend came over and told me to stop. I popped the seal out using the screw method.

I flipped the old seal over and used it as a die, set it on top of the new seal, and gently tapped it in with a piece of pvc and a rubber mallet.

No leaks.

I thought I had pics but can't find them now.

 

I didn't think the lip on the seal would be pliable enough to fit through the smaller ID of the counter shaft case opening. You get the Macgyver award for creative resolution.

 

My old thread.

https://cbrforum.com/forum/f2-tech-93/oil-leak-130948/

The oil leak, it was bad. Steady stream coming down when running:



The old seal:



I've done about 2000 miles with the new seal, and no issues.