counter shaft oil seal
3 Attachment(s)
So the bad news was the replacement of the $12 dollar oil seal requires the engine be dropped out of the bike and the case split open. Of course on a 20 year old motorcycle with 33K miles there are other concerns that come in play once it's opened up. What kind of shape are the internals going to be in and what else will need attention. Fortunately in my case we're in good shape with exception of the rod and main bearings which are going to need replacement. I have a trusted mechanic doing the work for me while I'm on the road. He used to race an F2 so this is nostalgic for him. Anyway, I decided to replace a couple of additional items while the bike is being serviced so there's new Michelin P-3's, Driven sprockets (going back to stock 15/43) and a EK gold chain. Should be ready next week just in time for 5 months of endless Oregon rain.
Here's the oil seal which came out in 2 pieces. It was trashed. Attachment 30634 Here's a pic of the internals and a close up of the bearing scuff. The crank has no grooves and looks pretty good. Attachment 30635 Attachment 30636 |
in the same boat
That's a crap one man, I know what its like, my bike got about the same on the clock and my bearings are are also in need of replacing. Good luck with the bike hope she's up and running for the good weather
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Hate to break it to you, but you did not need to drop the engine.
I had the same problem, 30 minute job. This is how I did mine. http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/CounterShaftSealFAQ.htm |
Originally Posted by ko67
(Post 1258048)
Hate to break it to you, but you did not need to drop the engine.
I had the same problem, 30 minute job. This is how I did mine. http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/CounterShaftSealFAQ.htm I had a look at the seal being replaced, that seal doesn't seem to have the lip that the f2 seal has, that might damage the new seal. Anyway thats just my 2 cents |
Originally Posted by ko67
(Post 1258048)
Hate to break it to you, but you did not need to drop the engine.
I had the same problem, 30 minute job. This is how I did mine. Counter Shaft Seal FAQ Want a bag f salt to rub into the wound too? At least he'll have nice new shells in the mains and big ends. That's something to be cheery about. Hind sight! Worth twice its weight in gold! :icon_denk: |
Originally Posted by Scorch
(Post 1258059)
I've put this in the other post to.
I had a look at the seal being replaced, that seal doesn't seem to have the lip that the f2 seal has, that might damage the new seal. Anyway thats just my 2 cents This is how he does it, except instead of screws, he uses a dental tool to hook the seal and pull it out. |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by ko67
(Post 1258048)
Hate to break it to you, but you did not need to drop the engine.
I had the same problem, 30 minute job. This is how I did mine. Counter Shaft Seal* FAQ Attachment 30598 |
The BMW link was one that somone here gave me.
I too read the manual and had started dropping the engine. I also had concerns about the lip on the new seal. My friend came over and told me to stop. I popped the seal out using the screw method. I flipped the old seal over and used it as a die, set it on top of the new seal, and gently tapped it in with a piece of pvc and a rubber mallet. No leaks. I thought I had pics but can't find them now. |
I didn't think the lip on the seal would be pliable enough to fit through the smaller ID of the counter shaft case opening. You get the Macgyver award for creative resolution.
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2 Attachment(s)
My old thread.
https://cbrforum.com/forum/f2-tech-93/oil-leak-130948/ The oil leak, it was bad. Steady stream coming down when running: Attachment 30595 The old seal: Attachment 30596 I've done about 2000 miles with the new seal, and no issues. |
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