cbr 600 f2 main jet sizes
#1
#2
Why would you want to go up to a bigger size? Is your bike running lean? Have you installed an aftermarket exhaust or K&N filter?
If your bike is stock then leave the jets in there. If its modified then welcome to the fun world of carb tuning. Every exhaust and every engine is different so you have to tune the carbs to your setup.
You can buy kehin jets from motorcycle superstore but if you don't have adjustable needles yet from a carb jet kit then I recomend you start with one of those. I run factory pro in mine. A lot of guys like dynojet too.
If your bike is stock then leave the jets in there. If its modified then welcome to the fun world of carb tuning. Every exhaust and every engine is different so you have to tune the carbs to your setup.
You can buy kehin jets from motorcycle superstore but if you don't have adjustable needles yet from a carb jet kit then I recomend you start with one of those. I run factory pro in mine. A lot of guys like dynojet too.
#3
carbs
everything is stock expect for slip on pipe
runs and pulls great , only aroun 3000-4500 rpms it seems a little lean thats all...
if i dont need bigger jetse to fix that then i wont go thats rout.
any ideas. i was thinking shimm my needles mybe 3 washers under each needle ,would that be ok..
runs and pulls great , only aroun 3000-4500 rpms it seems a little lean thats all...
if i dont need bigger jetse to fix that then i wont go thats rout.
any ideas. i was thinking shimm my needles mybe 3 washers under each needle ,would that be ok..
#4
#5
If all you have is a slip-on, and you do spring for a jet kit, like "other Jeff" (I'm Jeff too ), I recommend Factory Pro...at any rate, the kit will recommend decreasing main jet size, not increasing. And yes, stock is 135.
Also, if you use the shims that come with a kit, or just pick up true shims used for the purpose of raising the jet needle, rather than just buying some washers that might work, each shim is roughly 1/2 of a needle clip position, which allow you to really "dial it in", like other Jeff said.
If you really are lean in that rev range, you could toy with your fuel screws for the pilot circuit, before going to the needle jets - you might solve your lean issue their, without having to fully remove the carbs and peel 'em apart. Does the bike stutter as soon as you give it some throttle off idle?
Also, if you use the shims that come with a kit, or just pick up true shims used for the purpose of raising the jet needle, rather than just buying some washers that might work, each shim is roughly 1/2 of a needle clip position, which allow you to really "dial it in", like other Jeff said.
If you really are lean in that rev range, you could toy with your fuel screws for the pilot circuit, before going to the needle jets - you might solve your lean issue their, without having to fully remove the carbs and peel 'em apart. Does the bike stutter as soon as you give it some throttle off idle?
#6
#7
Turning the screws in (clockwise) leans the pilot circuit out, and the opposite, of course, for richening. What I would do first, is just establish where they are all set, as a reference - you might find that there all over the place.
Turn the screw all the way in, being careful to count and keep track of how many full, then 1/2 or 1/4 turns it takes to get them seated lightly, then you'll know how many "turns out" they were set to - you might find that they're at different places. Now, as for a recommendation on where they should be, this is not real easy to say, since all bikes run a little different than the next, even if it's the same year and model. Most jet kits have a starting recommended "base" setting of 1 1/2 to 2 full turns out, then you tune from there, based on whether the circuit is running rich or lean.
Turn the screw all the way in, being careful to count and keep track of how many full, then 1/2 or 1/4 turns it takes to get them seated lightly, then you'll know how many "turns out" they were set to - you might find that they're at different places. Now, as for a recommendation on where they should be, this is not real easy to say, since all bikes run a little different than the next, even if it's the same year and model. Most jet kits have a starting recommended "base" setting of 1 1/2 to 2 full turns out, then you tune from there, based on whether the circuit is running rich or lean.
#9
#10
The main reason the jet kits have smaller main jets is that their needles are much thinner than the stock ones. The profile for the stock needles is pretty dramatic in the end taper due to emission regs. If you plan on racing/track days a step up or two will make the bike run cooler during sustained high rpm running, but will load up if you don't keep it pegged all of the time. I have experimented with both a jet kit and shimming the stock needles with RS
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