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Carb Tee O-rings?

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  #1  
Old 03-06-2011 | 04:24 PM
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Default Carb Tee O-rings?

Hey guys, just bought a '91 F2 that had been sitting for a year or two, and it runs alright after we got it primed up. Flushed the brakes and topped off the coolant, and its running pretty good. Valves definitely need an adjustment, they're damn loud right now. Only immediate issue is the carb o-rings, I believe where the tees go into the carbs.
I'm guessing with the movement they encounter, they've worn down a bit, as when we were priming the carbs with the tank off (using a funnel with a hose as a tank), I saw some fuel running down from what appeared to be the right-most carb tee (if facing front of the bike). Anyway, I tried looking on the parts diagram, but it seems they list two sets of tees. If you look on BikeBandit, under Carburetor Assembly, you'll see there are gasket sets 8 and 9, surrounded by squares on the diagram. There are three sets of 8, but two sets of 9. From what I saw, my bike has two sets of tees (one for a pair of carbs), that feed off one more tee, with the single leg end going to the petcock. The gasket set 8 is for tees that connect all 4 carbs together, instead of as pairs. Is the set of tees that goes with 8 hidden somewhere I cant see? Or perhaps is it for a different model, maybe a California emission thing? The parts diagram isn't clear as to how you would feed the set of 3 tees either. This parts diagram is one of the most confusing I've seen yet.
Thanks for your help!
 
  #2  
Old 03-06-2011 | 04:46 PM
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What exactly is a tee and a carb O ring? Not sure as to which parts you are asking about as I have never heard them called as such.

Also, it is rare that valves make noise on these bikes. any noise is usually associated with the OEM cam chain tensioner.
 
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Old 03-06-2011 | 07:56 PM
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I find that bikebandit's microfiche sometimes gets a little screwed up - numbers that don't match the parts list, and they will list several entries for the same part -probably discontinued parts and the replacements. When in doubt I check out the search on servicehonda.com to compare them.

http://www.servicehonda.com/look-up-parts/03
 
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Old 03-06-2011 | 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Dissevered
What exactly is a tee and a carb O ring? Not sure as to which parts you are asking about as I have never heard them called as such.

Also, it is rare that valves make noise on these bikes. any noise is usually associated with the OEM cam chain tensioner.
The tee is the part that goes between a pair of carbs to feed it fuel. The fuel goes in this path: Tank -> Hose -> Tee -> Hose x2 -> Tee x2 -> Carbs x4. The 2 tees go one between a pair of a carb (2 pairs total) when you assemble the rack of carbs. If you check out the parts fiche, its sorta clear how that works.

As far as the CCT, the one on this bike doesn't look like the OEM tensioner, it has a bolt and nut coming out of it. I'll take a picture of it, but it looks like it has been replaced with a manual tensioner and perhaps needs adjustment.

Originally Posted by adrenalnjunky
I find that bikebandit's microfiche sometimes gets a little screwed up - numbers that don't match the parts list, and they will list several entries for the same part -probably discontinued parts and the replacements. When in doubt I check out the search on servicehonda.com to compare them.

http://www.servicehonda.com/look-up-parts/03
The part numbers for both 8 and 9 are the same I suppose, the original parts have been superseded. Its only if I needed the plastic tee itself that it would matter. I'm still puzzled why the fiche shows having either two or three tees. I'll try and order the o-rings I suppose.
A throttle cable is also in order, the stock piece is frayed and sticky. Is there any trick to getting the new one in there?
 
  #5  
Old 03-07-2011 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by buickid
Is there any trick to getting the new one in there?
Sometimes it takes patience - take good pics of exactly how the cable is routed before you remove it.

I found in replacing mine, having the cable routed slightly differently resulted in drag, even on brand new motion pro cables. A slight reroute cleaned all the drag up.
 
  #6  
Old 03-07-2011 | 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by buickid
The tee is the part that goes between a pair of carbs to feed it fuel. The fuel goes in this path: Tank -> Hose -> Tee -> Hose x2 -> Tee x2 -> Carbs x4. The 2 tees go one between a pair of a carb (2 pairs total) when you assemble the rack of carbs. If you check out the parts fiche, its sorta clear how that works.

As far as the CCT, the one on this bike doesn't look like the OEM tensioner, it has a bolt and nut coming out of it. I'll take a picture of it, but it looks like it has been replaced with a manual tensioner and perhaps needs adjustment.

The part numbers for both 8 and 9 are the same I suppose, the original parts have been superseded. Its only if I needed the plastic tee itself that it would matter. I'm still puzzled why the fiche shows having either two or three tees. I'll try and order the o-rings I suppose.
A throttle cable is also in order, the stock piece is frayed and sticky. Is there any trick to getting the new one in there?
ok, T-joint. I figured thats what you meant, but wasn't sure... Yeah, the gaskets for those different joints are the same apparently according to the diagram, but you should double check the joint it self to make sure it is not cracked before ordering parts.

No tricks with the throttle cable, pull the one end off the carbs, and unscrew the housing on the bar and un hook it there. Just make sure you route the new ones the same as the old ones or they might stick, and lube them up as well.

Manual CCT can become loose I suppose... see if screwing it in removes the noise you get, if you screw it in enough to drop the RPMs, you know its not that, and back it out again.

The only other noise I get with my bike is clutch noise. Do you notice any change when you pull the clutch in vs out?

My bike has 55,000 miles on it and I beat it up hard at the track and my valves are still in spec.
 
  #7  
Old 03-07-2011 | 12:55 PM
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subscribed might need this info later
 

Last edited by nickels; 03-07-2011 at 12:58 PM.
  #8  
Old 03-08-2011 | 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Dissevered
ok, T-joint. I figured thats what you meant, but wasn't sure... Yeah, the gaskets for those different joints are the same apparently according to the diagram, but you should double check the joint it self to make sure it is not cracked before ordering parts.

No tricks with the throttle cable, pull the one end off the carbs, and unscrew the housing on the bar and un hook it there. Just make sure you route the new ones the same as the old ones or they might stick, and lube them up as well.

Manual CCT can become loose I suppose... see if screwing it in removes the noise you get, if you screw it in enough to drop the RPMs, you know its not that, and back it out again.

The only other noise I get with my bike is clutch noise. Do you notice any change when you pull the clutch in vs out?

My bike has 55,000 miles on it and I beat it up hard at the track and my valves are still in spec.
Dissevered - what kind of clutch noises do you get with your bike?
 
  #9  
Old 03-08-2011 | 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by switched
Dissevered - what kind of clutch noises do you get with your bike?
If the bike is in neutral and I let the clutch out, it rattles. Not the higher pitched click/rattle that a CCT would sound like. Its lower pitched, the sound of bigger parts moving.

I was told not to worry about it. Its been doing that for 9 years, still haven't had to replace even with how hard I beat on her.

Hell it might be the transmission not clutch. Lever out = clutch plates engaged. I am not good with transmission as I have never had to open one up yet, but maybe whatever spins with the clutch plates when the bike is in neutral may have some wear on it. *shrug*
 

Last edited by Dissevered; 03-08-2011 at 09:18 AM.
  #10  
Old 03-08-2011 | 10:24 AM
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wow, i'm having the EXACT same problem...

bike neutral + clutch in (plates disengaged) = perfectly fine
bike neutral + clutch out (plates engaged) = loud rattle

So you've had this go on for 9 years and still haven't had a problem? My bike tends to die when the engine starts making those noises... and the sound goes completely away if i hold the throttle above 2,000 rpm. So I sit at all the stop lights in gear with clutch lever pulled in instead of in neutral.
 


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