Hey everyone. I had another thread but it was directed and labeled off topic for the help I need now. I just swapped motors, and when it first went in it was in neutral. Ater hooking everything up, I can't find neutral, even with the bike off. My first thought is the shift peg linkage, as I'm not sure I positioned it back on right. Is there a specif way this needs to go? The chain is old and tight, I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it our not, but a new chain is on the way. Is there anything obits to check first or something I could be missing? I'm also having done problems changing gears, another issue I think 8am be contributed to the linkage? Any ideas?

 

No offense - but why not just read the responses to your original thread - I took a bit of time responding to your questions there. https://cbrforum.com/forum/showpost....9&postcount=11

There you also mentioned that you couldn't get the bike to start - I'm guessing that's been resolved now since it wasn't mentioned here? Course now you've double-posted this same question back to back, so this thread may go away - I'll repost my answer to the neutral/linkage questions here anyhow:

Can't find neutral? since you said this is your first-ever MC, I'm going to go ahead and say it, cause I didn't know at first either - but motorcycles don't shift like ATV's. The shift pattern is 1-N-2-3-4-5-6. From neutral - you press down once - that drops you to 1st. From there up-clicks take you into 2-3-4-5-6. To get back into neutral you have a half-click up from 1st, or a half-click down from 2nd. It can be a bit tricky to get into at times. also - sometimes you have to roll the bike a hair to get it to find a gear while you're stopped. Do you ever see the neutral light illuminate while you're shifting - even if for a split second? I see mine blink when riding on the 1-2 shift up and down as I pass Neutral. I attached the pic from the manual.

The manual states: When installing (linkage), align the punch marks on the gearshift pedal link (part #2 in the diagram) and the gearshift spindle.

you can see mine here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/adrenal...7624127139543/

Speaking of....sounds like you need a manual - you can download the Honda service manual here: http://www.stephygee.com/F2manual.zip

I like the Clymer manual better - lots more detail and pics - but if you don't have anything - the free one is not too shabby.

 

Also - the chain issue - if it is completely tight - that is a problem - are the axle adjusters all the way forward? Proper chain tension should result in about an inch of free playup/down at all points - it should never go completely tight. It could put a bind on the output shaft and be causing some issues - def shouldn't be ridden under power if it is 100% tight like a BMX bike's chain - you'll end up hurting the transmission.

 

Didnt realize anyone else posted in the other thread. Ileft for work at noon and as of then no one had. Posted this on my phone at work. Before you, no one else had even touched on the problems I've been having, but I appreciate your detailed response. I know how bikes shift, and prior to the swap I could hit neutral every time. Two of my buddies who both ride regularly also couldn't find it. Also can't get the light on at all, and it was lit before the swap so I know it works.

It is getting better at starting, but it does struggle sometimes.I'm glad you clarified the petcock positions as I thought up was running.

I did get and read the honda manual. I didn't really get what they meant when taking about the punch marks.

Thanks again for your reply.

 

It's not bmx bike tight but its tighter then it should be I think. The axle adjusters are all the way back as the chain is worn. Tried getting then loose, but one is sized/rounded a bit. Figured ind try to take that once I got the new chain in.

 

here's a pic of my linkage.



See the little dot on the shaft, it should line up with the indention on the end of the shift linkage.

 

I really didn't see the punch marks on my linkage. Is it a factory thing or are you supposed to mark them before you take it off? How should the actual shift peg be sitting relative to the foot peg?

 

They're factory markings. Are you meaning where should the pedal be? The location of the pedal is adjustible. One end of the link rod is reverse threaded so if you break the nut loose on each end of the linkage you can rotate the rod to raise/lower the position of the pedal.

If you arent getting the neutral light either the neutral indicator switch isn't working in he new transmission or you're truly not getting into neutral, or something isn't right in the transmission. Good thing is that u have a spare trans to pull parts from if it comes to that.

 

Okay a few developments/realizations:
The chain isn't over tight. There is at least in inch of play up and down (no more then 1.5" or so)
I got done work late and it was dark so I didn't try to reconenct that hose (off the top of the motor). However, theres now smoke coming out of it after it gets warmed up. The only thing I can think of is that when I first dropped the exhuast, there was quite a bit of oil in it. I assume this was cause the first motor was toasted. However, most of the oil seemed to have burned off already. Not sure why this hose is smoking.
I tried adjusting the shift pedal linkage before work, but ran out of time. However after looking at your picture I realize I have it on upside down. I'm guessing this is a pretty big problem so we'll see what happens tomorrow. Before I readjusted it tho, my friend had put it on, so I'm not sure if he had it on right and it still didn't go to neutral.

Another quick question, under my tank there are two ports (not off the petcock, off the tank). The big one is an overflow correct? What is the smaller one next to it? I have it off right now and don't know where it should go.

Lastly, I some how managed to disconnect my idle adjust screw from wherever its supposed to go. I imagine its the carbs? Do you know where in particular?

Do I have to drop the motor again to get to the trans (if needed)? or can it be accessed with the motor still in the bike?

I really appreciate all the help man. Thanks for bearing with me through this noobishness. Although I've done some stuff with cars this is my first bike ever, and if I've never done something before some times I miss the obvious haha

 

Shouldn't be too bad - although if the adjusters are all the way slid back, then yeah the new chain/sprockets should fix that up.

Well this is the crankcase vent hose, so it possibly could have some vaporized oil and such coming out. I'm not 100% sure where it connects to the block. Haven't really looked.

Yeah that can make a big diff, inverted it would be shifting backwards of what u thought it was. Flip it over and line the dots up, see if it makes any difference.

Both are vent/overflow lines - I think the smaller one is the vent, and the thicker one is the overflow. I have the overflow run down and it exits to the right of the swingarm, kinda over the exhaust. They don't connect to anything. There is a spot in the frame that both route through just under the tank. Then u should have 2 lines running from your petcock - the main line to the carbs, and the smaller vacuum line to the block.

yeah- the whole line is unscrewed? It screws into the carbs from underneath.




Theres external and internal shift mechanisms - manual says they can be serviced with the motor in the bike.


I'm a noob myself - look at my join date lol - my F2 is my first bike ever too, and I bought it in May. Needed a bunch of work too, so I've been teaching myself just like you. I'm good with cars,and amazingly my bicycle mechanic background is helping a bit too.