Ok so I'm new to riding and posting in forums so excuse my curiosity.
What it comes down to is just a couple of concers I've had:

1) Am I supposed to check the oil while the bike is upright or on it's sidestand. It's the difference between being completely level and...well not being completely level.
Also how much am I supposed to put in it? (I think it's 3.3-3.4 quarts) but since 1993 isn't exactly modern it's hard to find a good manual. Even the Hynes manual doen't completely explain it and the online service manual doesn't cover oil changes.

2) My brother (the previous owner) has already lowered the seat and since I'm not the tallest guy around want it lower so I don't have to tiptoe around stoplights but am under the impression that forcfully lowering it affects handling...? This I just need opinions and ideas greater than my own which is sadly lacking in expertise.

Any help is greatly appreciated!! Thanks!!

 

Always check the oil with the bike off the side stand and level. If your putting oil in, make sure its motorcycle oil formulated for wet clutches

Lowering a bike changes the geometry from how the bike was designed. Doing this has some affect on handling. Unless your a fairly experienced rider, you probably won't notice. Not being able to touch the ground is a safety issue and is more important in my book.

 

I say 3.5 quarts of Motorcycle oil and yes keep it level off of the kickstand. Once it has 3.5 quarts, start it and cycle the oil for around 30 seconds. Turn it off and recheck the oil level. By using the dipstick don't start screwing it in to check the level, just drop it to level with the idea of screwing without doing it. May take a little more oil than 3.5 quarts.

 

How do you lower a bike unforcefully? lol

Yes, lowering bikes does change the geometry of the bike, if you can tiptoe I'd do that, a few users on here do that and get by just fine.

I've found the Clymer manual I own to be very good. Describes everything I need in detail.

For oil changes it tells me all the tools and equipment I need even though it's basic stuff. Here's what it says to do though.

1. Start engine and run it until it is at normal operating temperature, then turn it off.

2. Support the bike on its sidestand when draining the engine oil. This will ensure complete draining.

3. Place a drip pan under the crankcase and remove the drain plug and washer.

4. Remove the dipstick/oil filter cap and rest the cap in the fille rhole; this will speed up the flow of oil.

5. Let the oil drain for at least 15-20 minutes then move the drain pan under the oil filter.
**My suggestion here is to get a bigger pan that can handle the filter and bolt plug and do both at once, let it sit a few minutes...the few drops of old oil wont hurt your bike**

6. Put an oil filter wrench on the oil filter and turn the filter counterclockwise until oil begins to run out the engine. Wait until the oil stops then loosen the filter all the way and remove it.

7. Hold the oil filter over the drain pan and pour out any remaining oil before discarding the filter (FYI, it's fine to drop everything into the pan then get it out after hehe)

8. Apply a light coat of new engine oil to the rubber seal on the new oil filter and screw on the oil filter. If you are using a socket type oil filter wrench tighten the filter to the torque specification in Table 5. If not, tighten the filter by hand until the filter's seal contacts the engine, then turn the filter an additional 3/4 turn.
**some people don't add the little bit of new oil to the seal, I suggest it but I'll let you decide. I usually just use a clean pinky and dip it in the oil then LIGHTLY coat the seal**

9. Replace the oil drain plug gasket if deformed (I'd do this every time, they're cheap).

10. Install the gasket onto the oil drain plug and thread the plug into the engine by hang. Then tighten the oil drain plug to the torque specifications in Table 5.

11. Remove the dipstick/oil filler cap and fill the crankcase with the correct weight (Table 3) and quantity (Table 4) of oil.

12. Screw in the dipstick/oil filler cap securely.

13. Start the engine and allow to idle; the oil pressure warning light should go out within 1-3 seconds. If it stays on, shut off the engine immediately and locate the problem. Do not run the engine with the oil pressure warning light on.

14. Let the engine idle and check for leaks.

15. Turn the engine off after 2-3 minutes and check the oil level as described in this chapter; adjust as necessary,.

**The torque for the filter is 10 NM or 7 ftlbs, the plug is 38NM and 27 ftlbs, the engine oil capacity is 3.7 US quartes for the oil and filter, or just 3.38 for just the oil. Us SAE 10W-40 SF or SG oil.**

Hope that helps.

 

That Guy in Maine; that has got to be one of the best/most idiot proof/thorough replies to a forum post that I've ever seen.

Kudos for taking the time!

 

Here's I Do Dirt's How To thread with pics - also the aluminum angle trick is awesome, cause it keeps oil from draining all over your header pipe - it would go in step 5 in the list above:

https://cbrforum.com/forum/stickies-...-600f3-101751/

I actually use a piece of vinyl siding that is a right angle, even though it is plastic, the motor/headers usually aren't warm enough to melt anything during this process.

 

Just a thought mate, if your having trouble with the height of your ride. Whats your suspension like and have you done a "sag" test for yourself. Maybe I`m barkin up the wrong tree but its worth mentioning. Best of luck mate.

 

Wow this forum is amazing! I didn't think I'd get this much help! Thank you everyone in advance! You guys are awesome!
I guess it makes a bit more sense to check while the bike is level so I'll do that from now on and that aluminum angle trick IS awesome. That is definitely a keeper!
Um wes 17: I am new to motorcycles so i definitely haven't checked the suspension --I'll have to look into it-- and sorry for asking but what is a "sag" test? I googled it but I came up with some kind of medical exam; what do I need that for?

 

Why use Google to find answers to Honda questions? You will just get pointed back here! LOL.

Have a read of this:
https://cbrforum.com/forum/other-bik...pension-91156/

 

That's a pretty interesting read on suspension. Although I don't know much about suspension in general, I feel better knowing what it explains. It also seems like I can just do it myself whenever I need to but I'll have to read a little more into it if I want to start fiddling with it. Maybe find some videos on it if I can.
If not, then I'll just pay someone who know to do it the first time and watch how they do it. That's how I learn a lot of things when it comes to cars.

P.S. I had to copy/paste that article and save it; it'll probly come in handy for when I want to tweek stuff later on.