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CBR954 Drag Racing at Bristol, TN

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Old 04-19-2013, 06:08 PM
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Default CBR954 Drag Racing at Bristol, TN

Video of a few of my passes last night from Street Fights at Bristol Dragway.

Honda CBR954 Drag Racing at Street Fights - Bristol, TN - YouTube
 
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Old 04-20-2013, 08:52 AM
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Very nice.
 
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Old 04-22-2013, 02:34 PM
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looks like one hell of a fun time!
 
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Old 05-13-2013, 07:01 AM
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Does the 954 really make that much more power than the 929? I've got my 929 setup for drag race i'm stuck at [email protected]
Backdoc 1st run was 137mph.
I've changed my gearing 3 times (-1/stock, -1/+2, -1/+4) still right at 133 mph. My 60 ft times have improved, but CANNOT get up around 140mph....
 
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Old 05-13-2013, 07:02 AM
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BTW.. nice runs
 
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Old 05-14-2013, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by medicbaldwin View Post
Does the 954 really make that much more power than the 929? I've got my 929 setup for drag race i'm stuck at [email protected]
Backdoc 1st run was 137mph.
I've changed my gearing 3 times (-1/stock, -1/+2, -1/+4) still right at 133 mph. My 60 ft times have improved, but CANNOT get up around 140mph....
The 954 is a little faster than the 929. My buddy has a 929 and we drag raced them many times when I first got my bike. Both were stock except for bolt-on mufflers and my 954 would always pull away a couple of bike lengths on his 929.

Those mph in my video even surprised me. I was running about a 50/50 mix of 87 pump gas and 110 race gas on those passes. I usually don't run race gas but ran low at the track the previous week so I put some race gas in to finish the night. Next week if my mph are back in my normal range of 133-135 I may add race gas again and see if it goes back up. My best pass in the video with a mph of nearly 139 shocked me. Too bad the ET was not in the low 10.40's to match the speed.

So far this year my setup is not to my liking. The Hindle full exhaust does not launch as good as the stock header and working htev but helps on the top end. I plan on getting it custom tuned very soon. I also installed a Factory Pro Evo shift kit with new oem clutch and stiffer EBC springs early this year. The clutch is getting better but I have ordered new stock springs to replace the EBC clutch springs. I just don't like the stiffer feel in the clutch lever because it makes it harder to slip the clutch off the line so my 60ft times are off nearly a half to one tenth from last year.

I recently installed a rear adjustable lowering link and have it dropped about 2 inches right now. Can't go any lower due to clearance getting it on my trailer. Also just got my MSD shift light working last week and placed an order today for an MSD 4350 Launch Master to help make my launches and 60ft times more consistent.


What is your current bike setup and what rpm are you shifting? I have been experimenting this year trying to find the best shift points. Once I get it dyno tuned I can use the torque numbers and the spreadsheet I found online to calculate the ideal shift point for each gear.
 
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Old 05-20-2013, 03:12 AM
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My current setup is: 954 ITB's, injectors and stacks, oem air filter, hindle header w/custom short meg exhaust, lowered 2", stretched about 8.5", shinko hookup rear tire,
r6 throttle tube, pc3 usb w/quickshift, gp shift pattern, dynojet wideband commander.
Still have oem clutch but needs replaced, bought some KG clutch factory springs (which are supposed to be stiffer than EBC)
I usually shift just before redline. I've experimented on the track with shifting sooner and I typically run slower.

I've been messing around with different shift light options. My wideband commander has a programmable warning light that I can connect a shift light.
Eventually i'd like to get a raptorperformance dual mode programmable shift light. That way I can set a launch light and shift light.

keep posting and let me know how your doing. BTW, nice to see you coming to the dark side of drag racing....
 
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Old 05-20-2013, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by medicbaldwin View Post
My current setup is: 954 ITB's, injectors and stacks, oem air filter, hindle header w/custom short meg exhaust, lowered 2", stretched about 8.5", shinko hookup rear tire,
r6 throttle tube, pc3 usb w/quickshift, gp shift pattern, dynojet wideband commander.
Still have oem clutch but needs replaced, bought some KG clutch factory springs (which are supposed to be stiffer than EBC)
I usually shift just before redline. I've experimented on the track with shifting sooner and I typically run slower.

I've been messing around with different shift light options. My wideband commander has a programmable warning light that I can connect a shift light.
Eventually i'd like to get a raptorperformance dual mode programmable shift light. That way I can set a launch light and shift light.

keep posting and let me know how your doing. BTW, nice to see you coming to the dark side of drag racing....

Its been over 2 weeks since I was last at the track. It rains all the time in TN lately so all events have been cancelled. Maybe this week the weather will be better so I can get back out.

Have you tried running your bike without the airfilter? I run a BMC Race filter with Factory Pro V-stacks. Not sure if these help or not. I see lots of bikes at the drag strip running with no filter. I may switch back to OEM filter with factory stacks for one test and tune and one no filter to see what happens. I may also remove the air duct covers to see if that helps the bike breathe better with my current setup.

Your exhaust setup raises a question for me. Do you have the Hindle midpipe? I would try running the complete system since it was designed that way for the bike. You may be loosing top end power with your custom setup. My full Hindle exhaust is not as good as the OEM exhaust with working htev off the line but is better on the top end.

I had replaced my clutch springs with EBC springs but switched back to new stock springs a few days ago. The stiffer springs made the clutch lever too stiff which made it harder for me to slip the clutch off the line.

I have an MSD 8963 Programmable Digital shift light on my bike. It connects to the positive of one coil to get the tach signal and allows you to set different shift points for gears 1-4. If you are getting into 6th gear then you would need the 89631 which only has one shift point but will work for all gears. I will never get to 6th in the 1/4. (See my write up under the "How to" section in the CBR954 section)

This weekend I installed an MSD 4350 Launch Master on my bike. Its a low rpm limiter made for launching. You set the rpm you want to launch and hold the throttle above the desired rpm and it will hold it there. When you release the lever the clutch switch is activated so it turns off the limiter. Its made for consistent launches and improved 60ft times. I hope to get to test it this week. ( I will post an install "How to" in the next few days)
 
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Old 05-21-2013, 12:19 AM
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Name:  929exhaust-1.jpg
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here's what my exhaust looks like.
as for the intake, i've never run without an air filter, but I did open up the inlets into the box after I saw how much bigger the inlets for the 954 are compared to the 929.
with the wideband commander I can see exactly what the AFR is doing and change the program to correct any AFR deficiency.

With my gearing the way it is currently setup (15/47) I'm hitting the finish line in 6th gear just short of the redline. With the gearing at (15/45) i was at the top of 5th gear but still my overall trap speed was about the same. My 60ft times were better with the 15/47 gearing..

I don't think with the class I race in that I can use electronics (launch master). But using a dual mode shift light, with low limit and high limit is fine, because it doesn't actually limit the rpm..

What rpm are you launching at anyway?
 

Last edited by medicbaldwin; 05-21-2013 at 05:11 AM.
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Old 05-21-2013, 09:57 AM
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Where do you have the oxygen sensor mounted for the wideband commander and will it auto adjust the map or do you manually adjust your map? I have considered removing my PC and installing a Bazazz system since it has the autotune feature but may look into the wideband.

Do you have a rear lowering link on your bike? The pic appears to be the stock link with the rear of your bike sitting near normal height. I have an adjustable link with bike sitting pretty low. Any lower and I will have to remove my hugger fender.


Do you have a lowering strap on your forks? I can see the forks are raised in the triple tree. A lowering strap prevents the forks from extending any helping to keep the front lower on the launch and reducing the chance of a wheelie.

What track do you race at? Check with your local track on the rules about the MSD Launch Master. The NHRA Rulebook which most tracks go by allows starting line rev limiters for motorcycles. Everything I have read online about "No electronic" classes state that clutch launched, stick shift vehicles are allowed a single stage rev limiter to control starting line RPM. This is what the MSD Launch Master does. Once the clutch lever is released the system is off.

I looked at the raptor performance shift/launch light. It looks like a good setup but would still be distracting to watch the launch light and the tree at the same time.

Right now I launch around 5k.
 
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