Worried I'm missing something
#1
Worried I'm missing something
Ok, I just want to make sure my bike will stay running fine, What are other things to look out for other then oil, tires, chain and sprockets and spark plugs(manual says they don't need to be changed out till around 20K?)
How often does a coolant flush and change need to be done? I'm pretty sure my bike hasn't had it's coolant changed at all.
How often does a coolant flush and change need to be done? I'm pretty sure my bike hasn't had it's coolant changed at all.
#2
Ok, I just want to make sure my bike will stay running fine, What are other things to look out for other then oil, tires, chain and sprockets and spark plugs(manual says they don't need to be changed out till around 20K?)
How often does a coolant flush and change need to be done? I'm pretty sure my bike hasn't had it's coolant changed at all.
How often does a coolant flush and change need to be done? I'm pretty sure my bike hasn't had it's coolant changed at all.
G'Day Dazed,
Coolant flush about every two years, and consult the manual for methodology, it varies from model to model. Essentially what you are doing with a coolant change is filling the system to the brim, then bleeding the system to ensure no air pockets remain in the cooling system. Sometimes it involves squeezing hoses others there can be a bleed crew that you wait until coolant flows out of.
Also check your brake/clutch fluid levels periodically and brake pad wear and check your wheel bearings.
Cheers, SB
#4
Always double check you fairing bolts before long rides...some may rattle loose.
#5
[QUOTE
How often does a coolant flush and change need to be done? I'm pretty sure my bike hasn't had it's coolant changed at all.[/QUOTE]
The last time I had to change my coolant was when my fan switch went bad...I'm sitting in traffic and fan never turn on...pull the wire from the switch located on bottom of radi, ground it and fan works, so I order a new switch $25.
When removing the switch, coolant will drain, I just direct to lower hose to a bucket and pour fresh coolant until its clear...
Then last month when I install the new Manifold down pipe, manual says remove the radi, so I drain the coolant AGAIN...another $10 worth / waste of coolant.
Then to find out, I can swap the manifold by only needing to remove the fan...live and learn...
Fresh coolant is always a plus for the bike and it is like the easiest thing one can DIY...don't skip this step.
How often does a coolant flush and change need to be done? I'm pretty sure my bike hasn't had it's coolant changed at all.[/QUOTE]
The last time I had to change my coolant was when my fan switch went bad...I'm sitting in traffic and fan never turn on...pull the wire from the switch located on bottom of radi, ground it and fan works, so I order a new switch $25.
When removing the switch, coolant will drain, I just direct to lower hose to a bucket and pour fresh coolant until its clear...
Then last month when I install the new Manifold down pipe, manual says remove the radi, so I drain the coolant AGAIN...another $10 worth / waste of coolant.
Then to find out, I can swap the manifold by only needing to remove the fan...live and learn...
Fresh coolant is always a plus for the bike and it is like the easiest thing one can DIY...don't skip this step.
#7
bleeding the system on the '54 is easy. you just blip the throttle. the manual tells you in more detail. as far as the coolant, just wait until you're ready to ride again. but it's easy. very easy.
spark plugs need to be changed based on what the plugs look like, imo. but if your bike was running fine before you winterized it - i'm sure it's still fine - and i'm sure the plugs are fine too. things are so much easier now that we're using aluminum blocks and what not. steel sleeves used to mean you had to put a bit of oil in the cyl via the sparkplug hole before you packed it in for the winter.
it's fun - especially when you can't ride - to take the bike apart and work on it. so don't be afraid too. and proper maintenance is important.
spark plugs need to be changed based on what the plugs look like, imo. but if your bike was running fine before you winterized it - i'm sure it's still fine - and i'm sure the plugs are fine too. things are so much easier now that we're using aluminum blocks and what not. steel sleeves used to mean you had to put a bit of oil in the cyl via the sparkplug hole before you packed it in for the winter.
it's fun - especially when you can't ride - to take the bike apart and work on it. so don't be afraid too. and proper maintenance is important.
#8
You should also check brake pads, check for play in any of the suspension linkage, front forks and rear shock for any signs of leakage, check cables for free running with no frays (a snappy throttle response and fluid light clutch movement at the bars ) tyre pressures are always forgotten aswell as checking your small tools you carry for an emergency. Do a nut and bolt check whilst your at it and you will see if your tools need attention. Lastly (though theres many more you could do) from me would also be your clock lights. If you ride during the daylight most of the time, the night your out in the dark will be a more pleasureable if you can actually read everything in front of you. Riding through pitch black country lanes with a black hole between your arms wont help much. Theres lots more you can check on your bike but its good to get familiar with her. Clean it often, get to know her well, and you will see the things that need doing. Have fun mate.....thats whats it all about !!