nah, it wouldn't be that bad. the reason i say is - how thoroughly is your shop going to go through your motor with a spun bearing.

they run a business and they want to get it in and out. take the cam chain off, then split the case lift, off crank, replace all bearings, put everything all back together, you may have the problem again. when breaking down a motor it's all about being thorough - which is major money.


you could take in the 2 motors and the weld shop could essentially just copy it. talk to them and see what they say

 

WOW.....no kidding when you guys say the 954rr engine is so scarse....i search entire ebay site and only find this: no working & they want close to $800 shipped

02 03 Honda CBR 954RR OEM Engine Motor Parts motor not running bad compresion | eBay

Then i search for the other 900rr motors & find a good handful....not cheap but at least available.

so there is two issues here, 1 is the broken piece the PO hide from you and try use JB weld, 2nd is the spung rod noise the shop finds...wow, no other option? really tough....can't he get a 1000rr motor in there? I'm just throwing in some ideas....

even if you have the shop rebuilt the engine $1000-$1500, that don't include the weld right?

 

nah man, only motors that work are 929 and 954 because they're stressed member motors (you can't have a rolling chasis without the motor - look at some pics and you'll see) so 1krr motor is out.


i bought a junk 954 motor for $300. check fireblades.org's classifieds (i had luck there).



i'm just going to come out and say it. it is a waste of money to rebuild to stock on a motor. you may as well bore it out and put some high compression pistons in it. it'll only cost a few more bucks to do so - and when you're spending the time, effort, and money to do it - you may as well do it right and get some satisfaction with more power.


here's something i thought about after i got offline last night. have the weld shop put motor 2 (motor 2 - the one without a motor mount) inside the frame before they weld and build on their motor mount. you'll have 3 motor mounts plus the rear long bolt holding it right in place. they could mock up a piece of aluminum to make the last motor mount or could actually probably weld it while it's inside the frame - then drill and tap - and you've got your extra motor mount and it would definitely be straight. that's the way i'd do it.


unless you could take motor 1 all the way down and inspect everything yourself, i would never give that much control over to the shop because they'll put everything together as quickly as possible - meaning another issue could come up with some trash that might linger in the motor after the rebuild. the last thing youd want to happen is to have another problem right after their 90 day warranty runs out.


just some things to think about. i'm still wanting to know how that motor mount got sheered off....