cam chain tensioner
#11
RE: cam chain tensioner
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ORIGINAL: TK954RR
OK got it done, took bout hour total time (bear in mind im mechanicaly inclined, and have a large assortment of tools). It is a pretty tight working area for sure, prop tank, remove airbox, and i just loosened the right fairing, you will have to unplug 2 sensors and the main wire harness holder from the inside of frame. From there its a couple of 8mm bolts to remove and reinstall. I went to snug on the new one and fired bike, when clicking went away i tightened a quarter turn and reassembled. All in all i would say its a 5 on a 1-10 scale of toughness (just because of tight working area) and pretty straight forward. If you need a tool list or anything like that post up or pm me and i can give ya a better write up.
OK got it done, took bout hour total time (bear in mind im mechanicaly inclined, and have a large assortment of tools). It is a pretty tight working area for sure, prop tank, remove airbox, and i just loosened the right fairing, you will have to unplug 2 sensors and the main wire harness holder from the inside of frame. From there its a couple of 8mm bolts to remove and reinstall. I went to snug on the new one and fired bike, when clicking went away i tightened a quarter turn and reassembled. All in all i would say its a 5 on a 1-10 scale of toughness (just because of tight working area) and pretty straight forward. If you need a tool list or anything like that post up or pm me and i can give ya a better write up.
#13
RE: cam chain tensioner
If you read the book it is not too hard, I did mine last year. You will need very small hands. I had my X kid put the bolts in and I got to them the tighten down. She loved it because she got to help. (Shyanne is only 8). The only prob is not her mom tells me she will not stop trying to take apart her 80 cc yama Rapter
#14
RE: cam chain tensioner
I just did mine tonight.
Got a stock CCT from the stealer for $70 including the gasket.
Yes, the working space is BS.
I have one of those flexi shaft drivers and it certainly came in handy.
Other than the working space for the bolt closest to the frame, it was not bad.
Oh, also useda snap-on ratchet with the movable headfor the innermost bolt and end wrench for the outer most (along the frame) bolt. The only complaint is the working space, not really b/c of hand size but the clearance between the frame and the CCT.
The Honda shop manual says to remove the throttle bodies. I did not do this. I do not think it would have been worth the effort. Also, i did not take tension off before removing the CCT. Just pulled it out slowly. The replacement CCT had a little 'key' like holder so the special tool was not necessary.
Oh, the 8mm screw in the end of is just there to keep the oil in and dirt out, but it's f'n tight. I had to hold it in a vise. I suppose you could try to break it free before removing the CCT. But then again, tight working quarters.
Tools just for the CCT replacement:
8mm endwrench
8mm socket
ratchet (preferably a skinny one with movable head)
vise or channel-locks
flexi shaft driver w/8mm stocket attached
new gasket
patience
beer
Also did an oil/filter change since I had the right fairing off.
Total time till I was back on the road, 75 minutes.
Got a stock CCT from the stealer for $70 including the gasket.
Yes, the working space is BS.
I have one of those flexi shaft drivers and it certainly came in handy.
Other than the working space for the bolt closest to the frame, it was not bad.
Oh, also useda snap-on ratchet with the movable headfor the innermost bolt and end wrench for the outer most (along the frame) bolt. The only complaint is the working space, not really b/c of hand size but the clearance between the frame and the CCT.
The Honda shop manual says to remove the throttle bodies. I did not do this. I do not think it would have been worth the effort. Also, i did not take tension off before removing the CCT. Just pulled it out slowly. The replacement CCT had a little 'key' like holder so the special tool was not necessary.
Oh, the 8mm screw in the end of is just there to keep the oil in and dirt out, but it's f'n tight. I had to hold it in a vise. I suppose you could try to break it free before removing the CCT. But then again, tight working quarters.
Tools just for the CCT replacement:
8mm endwrench
8mm socket
ratchet (preferably a skinny one with movable head)
vise or channel-locks
flexi shaft driver w/8mm stocket attached
new gasket
patience
beer
Also did an oil/filter change since I had the right fairing off.
Total time till I was back on the road, 75 minutes.
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