Last night I went for a ride, and when I came back (currently 21300 miles), I noticed a noise which sounded a little like an exhaust leak, but could have also been originating from the top end of the engine. I was already planning on taking my bike in for an inspection since I got it about a month ago, so I mentioned this new noise to them and the tech seems to think it is either the cam chain or cam chain tensioner. He also said it "is not running on all cylinders" which I know is not true. I can tell when there is a misfire, and the only time the bike runs rough is at idle, which needs to be adjusted. It is at about 950 rpm right now, needs to be up around 1100 rpm.

So anyway, the point is I have a list with 21 items which need to be taken care of, probably about 8 I will do myself (I already took care of 1). I won't let this discourage me from riding, I will fix the most important items and be back on the road by Monday! (hopefully)

Has anyone else had issues with the CCT around 21000 miles? I am not sure if the valve clearance has ever been checked or adjusted either.

Here is the list for anyone interested:

Oil Change
Chain and Sprockets
Missing one subframe bolt
Left foot peg loose (fixed)
Rear brake pads
Adjust throttle cables
Add license plate light
Fork fluid change
Brake fluid change
Coolant change
Replace fairing fasteners (one or two missing)
Replace spark plugs (maybe this will help "not all cylinders BS") also compression test
Upper engine noise (CCT?)
Valve clearance inspection and adjustment if necessary
Replace air filter
Replace oil pan gasket (very slow, residual oil leak)
Attach right mirror properly (currently glued)
Try to remove dent in exhaust under bike
Replace front brake switch
Bent rims (not sure if they are, they look okay)
Adjust idle speed

Any comments?

 

Most of that looks straight out the manual for routine maintenance according to mileage (at least on my F3 and F4i).
Valve clearances, for example, should be checked at 16k.
Plugs replaced every 12k.
Air cleaner inspected every 8k
Coolant flush every 24k
Brake fluid flushed every 12k
Oil changed every 8k

Of course many of us mod the maint schedule. Like I do oil every 3k or at the beginning and end of the season, brake fluid flushed every year and coolant once a year.

So here's the real questions:
when did you get the bike?
what kind of maintenance have you done since getting it?

 

I bought the bike a month ago. As far as maintenance, I lubricated the chain and checked the slack to make sure it was within specifications. I was told the oil was changed at the beginning of this season, it doesn't look bad at all through the sight window. It is slightly overfilled.

Today I bought oil and an oil filter, and ordered an air filter, spark plugs, the frame bolt, and rear brake pads which should be in mid-next week.

I think they may have portrayed their findings to sound worse than what they really are. However, I do want to make sure I do everything to make up for any over looked maintenance from previous owners.

I plan on having the dealer change the chain and sprockets, adjust the throttle cables, change fork fluid, brake fluid, and coolant. I would usually do most of this myself, but I don't have the time, and I hate bleeding brakes.

I had no idea spark plugs were so expensive, I ordered NGKs for around $18 per plug. I will have to shop around for parts in the future.

I have a question about the rear pads: My friend bought a set for my bike, Magnum brand name metallic pads for $23, the ones I bought are (assuming) OEM pads for $38. I haven't seen the ones I ordered yet, but is there any reason I should put one set on the bike instead of the other?

 

If I were you I'd get the service manual and do all that maint. myself and save lots of money for other stuff you'll end up getting later.Also before you purchase anything else and want to save money ask us for recommendations and we'll help you out.As far as pads never heard of Magnum brand brake pads,I'd stick with oem or popular name brands.Research is your best friend.

 

Thanks for the recommendations. I changed the oil today, and will do the pads, and plugs (at least) myself when they come in. letsride, you are right I should do most of this myself. I have a week off between work and school starting Monday so this is as good as it gets timewise. I do have the electronic version of the service manual. I will take a look at the other procedures and see what I feel comfortable with doing myself.

I put Honda GN 4 oil in, but I was wondering if I should be so picky with coolant to use the Honda brand? I do use distilled water to mix with whatever I buy.

Oh, and I will put on the OEM pads I bought instead of the Magnum. After seeing the price of the rotors, I wouldn't want to use an inferior pad and wear the rotors prematurely.

 

The bikes come with HH pads, but I don't think a worse pad is offered. I've never tried the carbon pads, and probably never will since I'm happy with the brakes now. Don't worry too much about the rotors, without a lot of track riding they will last a long time. If you doing pads an fluid I would suggest switching to stainless braided hoses, it's such a nice feeling. I got plugs from sparkplugs.com for $9.99ea. Honda coolant should come premixed, but use distilled if it doesn't. Depending on your taste, I drilled holes in the plastic and put my plate right under the taillight. Then I cut the extra off the bottom. My bike is not a looker so you might not want to do that to your bike, but the glow from the taillight illumines the plate. Hope your maintenance goes well. Also, if the previous owner overtightened a plug, and the threads come out when you change them, I have the time-sert kit for our bikes to put an insert in.