I was just reading about wheelies
#21
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ORIGINAL: skubysnak
To make sure I get this right, can you explain "Slipping" the clutch??? I'm guessing slight pull in of the clutch, roll power and quickly, not dump, the clutch. I'm assuming like racing off the green light and shifting through the gears, not closing all the way, etc...Did I get it right???
To make sure I get this right, can you explain "Slipping" the clutch??? I'm guessing slight pull in of the clutch, roll power and quickly, not dump, the clutch. I'm assuming like racing off the green light and shifting through the gears, not closing all the way, etc...Did I get it right???
You are accelerating slightly... you start to pull in the clutch when at a certian point your revs will start to jump up, but the clutch has not fully disengauged. You've just pulled it in enough for your revs to increase. In a equally quick motion, you release the clutch lever as you add more throttle.
The timing is like this:
1. The clutch is all the way out.
2. You accelerate slightly to put your bike under power.
3. In 1 motion, you pull in the clutch as you increase your throttle.
4. Keep the throttle to it's new increased position as you release the clutch.
Slipping the clutch is a quick motion. If it feels like your bike is trying to do a burnout, or the tire comes up slow, you're releasing the clutch too slowly.
An example I can give would be like this... Here's your revs:
2... 3... 4... 5... (slip clutch, add throttle) 8... (release clutch) 7... (in wheelie) 8... 9... etc
If you do not add throttle when you slip the clutch, it looks like this:
2... 3... 4... 5... (slip clutch, no throttle) 8... (release clutch) 5... (no wheelie) 6... 7... etc
So you should notice there, that just by having your bike under acceleration, your revs will increase when you slip the clutch... But if you don't add throttle while slipping it, you will end up at the same revs when you are done slipping the clutch. The adding the throttle bit is what causes your bike to come up... You're essentially gaining 2k rpm in a fraction of a second... where as if you were just accelerating like normal, it would take much longer to gain that 2k rpm.
This is what it will look like once you have it nailed:
2... 3... (slip clutch, add throttle) 7... (release clutch) 4... (straight to balance point) 4... 4... 4... 4...
If you only give the throttle a little twist when you slip the clutch, the tire only comes up a little. If you give it say a half twist as you slip the clutch, it jumps much higher. The key is not shutting down your throttle once you get the wheel in the air.
To keep your learning simple, always repeat the same motions, at the same speed. Most people that I see that loop their bikes keep going faster and faster as they try to bring it up... and as you go faster and into higher revs, you increase in horsepower. So what they do is try it at 20, doesn't come up... 30, doesn't come up... they start adding more throttle... 40, 50... all the sudden they're in their powerband, and they literally pin their throttle wide open and POW. They get their wheelie, but can't shut the power down fast enough and loop.
So do this. Start at wherever you feel comfortable.. say 20mph. Try to clutch it up.. if it doesn't come up.. you're now going like 35 or 40... slow back down, and try it again at 20mph with a bit more throttle when slipping. If it doesn't come up, or not as high as you wanted it to... slow back down, and try it again at 20 with more throttle. Don't just keep adding speed thinking that's what you need for it to come up. Always practice the same starting speed till you get it.
Well, I'm long winded here, so lol, hopefully this answered your question and gave you a bit more to consider when learning.
- Pixel -
BTW, something to remember is that slipping the clutch always takes the same amount of time... but during the time it's slipped, you can add 2k revs, or 9k revs depending on how fast you twist the throttle while slipping it.
- Pixel -
#22
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Pixel,
Thanx much for the great, detailed info. I guess I'm pulling the clutch in too far. I really like the part about going back to a slower speed (e.g., 20mph). I kept increasing my speed thinking that was the problem when all along, it was my clutch technique. Time to practice again....
Skuby...
Thanx much for the great, detailed info. I guess I'm pulling the clutch in too far. I really like the part about going back to a slower speed (e.g., 20mph). I kept increasing my speed thinking that was the problem when all along, it was my clutch technique. Time to practice again....
Skuby...
#23
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I spent the good part of the morning using Pixel's tutorial. No matter what I did, I just couldn't get the front end to lift. I know it's got to be bad throttle control. I accelerated, pulled in the clutch, gave some throttle, then released the clutch. Just bounced around. I got pissed, so I decided to just nail it. Low and behold, the front end came up. My first wheelie ever. My friend told me it went up about 1-2 feet, but this being my first, it felt like a 12 o'clock...hahahaaaa...I nailed it again and this time the tank slammed into my crotch and I was pretty much done for the day. I didn't go very far as I was afraid of looping the bike as I have no idea what to do after the front endcomes up, plus I need to find the BP. Lessons learned: Use athletic cup the next time. I've read all the threads and everyone seems to agree that clutching it is safer, so I still want to learn that way, plus I'd like to be able to pull up in 2nd or 3rd...More practice, practice, practice while covering the rear brake...
#24
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With all good information aside, I seriously hope your kidding with the athletic cup. You could break your pelvis or hip joint doing that.
Congratulations on bringing the front end up. These bikes will do bp in third on stock gearing with the right bounce. Keep working on throttle control. Have your foot putting slight resistence on the back break when you mash the gas during the clutch slip. This will, over time, develop a muscle memory in your right wrist, and then eventually, you will naturally take resistence of the back break, and only tap it when necessary. One thing I've learned from the 929 is that with only -1 down in front, another 2 up in back and third gear standups would be not as twitch in second when not in the lot.
Congratulations on bringing the front end up. These bikes will do bp in third on stock gearing with the right bounce. Keep working on throttle control. Have your foot putting slight resistence on the back break when you mash the gas during the clutch slip. This will, over time, develop a muscle memory in your right wrist, and then eventually, you will naturally take resistence of the back break, and only tap it when necessary. One thing I've learned from the 929 is that with only -1 down in front, another 2 up in back and third gear standups would be not as twitch in second when not in the lot.
#25
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Don't know if I'll ever injure my hip or pelvis doing wheelies, but I did get my nuts slammed today...Since it was a power wheelie, it just came up when it did. I understand that if the wheelie was clutched, I'd have been more ready for it...
Thanx for the additional advice. I will definitely follow. This site as been very informative...
Thanx for the additional advice. I will definitely follow. This site as been very informative...
#26
#28
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I can't remember the last time I powered up a wheelie.
Doesnt take much on these bikes.
I usually wheelie 1st at a dead stop, 2nd at about 15mph, and I don't use 3rd unless I'm on the highway and its usually around 50 mph. Thats on the back pegs which I wouldn't recommend without a HB. I'll hit em staggard every now and then.
Doesnt take much on these bikes.
I usually wheelie 1st at a dead stop, 2nd at about 15mph, and I don't use 3rd unless I'm on the highway and its usually around 50 mph. Thats on the back pegs which I wouldn't recommend without a HB. I'll hit em staggard every now and then.
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