Just did these three mods and have a few comments.

1. I fixed the HTEV valve in the 4 straight through position 3000-7000 position( index mark pointing up on the valveas the manual states). Now I was reading and searching on wheather or not the valve should be in the 7000-redline position where the pipes are straight through and crossed or like how I have it and couldn't find a definate answer. So i fixed in the 4 straight through position figuring that would b the optiminal position and for fear of losing low end power. Result: the bike runs 10x better. Revs up quicker, no loss in low end.... I think my gearing is helping here -1,+2, no dead spots,sounds friggin mean as hell and all this with no power commander. I just reset the ecu and hoped it would "learn" the new air flow as I read in this forum. No mil light nothin, just a lopey idle . So I would defiantley recomend this mod as a cheap alternative to a full exhaust, and is very easy to do. As for the position of the valve I figured the 7000-redline position is designed for maximum topend flow so logically it would kill the low and mid range especially withought a pc so 4 straight through position I feel is the best balance and like I said I felt no noticable loss in lowend power.

2. As for the pair mod I disconected all hoses from the valve and from the valve voverthen I simply put a small breather filter on the valve cover, then tookone of thehoses (pick one thats long enough) and connected the two holes in front of the spark plugs (where thevalve use to connect to)together. No tees or anything. As for blocking the hole in the airbox, just be creative. One thing I might go back and use a tee to connect a hose from the valve cover to the to the other tube, just because with the filter on there I can really smell the fumes comming out. Stopped at a light its preaty strong smell. With this mod the popping on decel went away and seemed to be smother down low.

Took me about two hours to do all the mods and 0$. And I definately feel that it livined up the bike a bit.

Good Luck

 

You nailed the position setting for the htev on the head. When my servo failed, it was stuck in the 7-redline position... and ran like complete ***.

Put it in the 3-7k, and woke the bike right back up. Shortly thereafter, I got a PCIII and took it to a really reputable race shop in town, and the tuner said that even with a PCIII, it needs to be in the 3-7k position, and we tuned it as such. The map compensates for revs above 7k just fine, and certainly didn't see any loss at higher rpms. My final hp/torque sheet confirms it. Horse power was climbing all the way to the limiter, with no dips anywhere. Torque jumped up to about 60 or so at 2k rpm, and hung out in that area till the limiter as well.

Ez to do mod. +1

- Pixel -

 

Yeah I figures the four straight through made the most sense despeite what I have seen from other people (Why would you have it set for 8000+rpm all the time when most of the driving is done between 4-8krpm????).

The power commander is the next thing on my list so I can smooth out the power band and get the most from the mod and to get rid of that annoiying on/off throttle hesitation[:@].

 

Can you guys explain what position the little mark should be facing? You keep mentioning position numbers "4" or "7" but then also mention RPM position. Can you please let me know what position is the optimal position if you were to say what time it is on a clock?

Should I set it so the valve marker is pointing at the "4 o'clock" position? I am really confused by all the numbers being thrown around.

Any help is appreciated on what I should set it at for optimum performance.