oil?
LOL, the only people running their engines while draining the oil are people who want to use their engines as paper weights, lawn ornaments, or coffee table bases. Running without oil = siezed up engine.
Some people run BEFORE draining the oil so that it'll heat up and the viscosity will be lower (thinner oil). I do not. My school of thought is to keep the oil in the oil pan before I drain it. It's a little thicker, but I don't have oil all up in the engine and oil passages to wait for it to drain out.
The oil drain bolt is located on the bottom of the oil pan, towards the back on the right hand side. Near the kickstand.
Some people run BEFORE draining the oil so that it'll heat up and the viscosity will be lower (thinner oil). I do not. My school of thought is to keep the oil in the oil pan before I drain it. It's a little thicker, but I don't have oil all up in the engine and oil passages to wait for it to drain out.
The oil drain bolt is located on the bottom of the oil pan, towards the back on the right hand side. Near the kickstand.
Oil pan is the the very bottom.
Go to www.rrzone.com, then go to the file section, and look at/download the 900RR service manual. NOT the microfiche- that's not what you need. You want the shop manual. Pretty much everything you'll ever need to know is contained within it.
Go to www.rrzone.com, then go to the file section, and look at/download the 900RR service manual. NOT the microfiche- that's not what you need. You want the shop manual. Pretty much everything you'll ever need to know is contained within it.
Get motorcycle specific oil, not just generic car oil. It'll say motorcycle oil on the label. It's debatable whether car oil can work or not, but it's just not worth the try. The difference between the two is additives. Auto oil has additives (depending on the grade) that will reduce friction. "Friction modifiers". This can/will mess up your clutch and make it slip, since most bikes (Ducatti is an example of an exception) have wet clutches, meaning the oil system also contains the clutch system. I used car oil my first oil change and nothing bad happened. I didn't know any better. A friend of mine did the same thing a couple months later, and his clutch wouldn't hold.
And you'll need an oil filter. It's the cylinder at the front of the engine block, partly hidden by the exhaust header. Running the engine before the oil change will make that header hot, which is another reason I don't do it. The oil filter just twists off counter-clockwise.
Oil & oil filters will be available at pretty much any auto parts store like Checker.
If the bike smokes a little bit afterwards, it's just because you spilled a little oil from the filter onto the header. It'll burn off, so don't worry. Might take a couple miles though.
I think the bike takes 3.8 quarts, but it might be 3.6. I haven't touched my bike in a while.
And you'll need an oil filter. It's the cylinder at the front of the engine block, partly hidden by the exhaust header. Running the engine before the oil change will make that header hot, which is another reason I don't do it. The oil filter just twists off counter-clockwise.
Oil & oil filters will be available at pretty much any auto parts store like Checker.
If the bike smokes a little bit afterwards, it's just because you spilled a little oil from the filter onto the header. It'll burn off, so don't worry. Might take a couple miles though.
I think the bike takes 3.8 quarts, but it might be 3.6. I haven't touched my bike in a while.
There are oil filter wrenches, which is basically a collapsible metal loop with a handle. I just turn them on by hand, then use my adjustable pliers to give it a little torque at the end. But you have to be careful not to crush the filter's casing. The oil filter wrenches just never seem to grip the filter well enough for me. When you take it off, feel free to mangle the hell out of it and smoosh it. It's going in the trash anyways.
When you put the new filter on, put a little bit of oil on the gasket surface of the new filter. This way it won't bind on the metal when you put it on.
Steps:
1. Remove plug from oil pan
2. Let drain
3. Remove oil filter (might as well keep the bike draining out through the plug)
4. Install new filter (run a little oil around the gasket with your finger)
5. Re-install drain plug
6. Fill with proper amount of oil
7. Double check with the sight glass.
When you put the new filter on, put a little bit of oil on the gasket surface of the new filter. This way it won't bind on the metal when you put it on.
Steps:
1. Remove plug from oil pan
2. Let drain
3. Remove oil filter (might as well keep the bike draining out through the plug)
4. Install new filter (run a little oil around the gasket with your finger)
5. Re-install drain plug
6. Fill with proper amount of oil
7. Double check with the sight glass.
You might want to take off the lower fairing and the side fairings too. You can do it with them on, but it's easier and quicker to just take them off and get them out of the way. Especially if it's your first time.
It's the 10- series motor oils you want to stay away from. Like 66DropTop says, you'll lube your friction plates on your clutch and will slip as revs rise.
As for the oil bolt, look at the pic below. See that big blob of weld in the lower right corner? That's where the stock oil drain bolt goes. I moved mine to the side because I was scared I was going to rip it off if I hit a bump. I don't think you'll have that problem
--Chris
[IMG]local://upfiles/1563/9AA3218AC70A45FA885D262F32931C83.jpg[/IMG]
As for the oil bolt, look at the pic below. See that big blob of weld in the lower right corner? That's where the stock oil drain bolt goes. I moved mine to the side because I was scared I was going to rip it off if I hit a bump. I don't think you'll have that problem

--Chris
[IMG]local://upfiles/1563/9AA3218AC70A45FA885D262F32931C83.jpg[/IMG]



