hi, i'm new to this forum but have been watchin and learning fromthe great posts and responses for a bout 8 months. so here's my problem i was doing a light burnout today, i let my buddy (who has a lot more riding experience than me) get one too. but he couldn't get it to go becuase he's about 100lbs lighter than me. i ride a CBR 900RR by the way sorry about that. back to the problem at hand after he gets a little one to roll of tries another but nothing. he actually let the clutch all the way out and the bike acts as though its in nuetral, not moving sputtering or acting like it wants to cut off just idling. i get one of his buddys to stop by ands look at it he adjusts the clutch lever cable and it starts working. he takes it around the block and says it's acting like the clutch is slipping, so i take it up the road real quick. i hammer down on it and it seems fine to me, but i don't want to ride it until i know if i fried my clutch plates. i'm more worried about pieces of the clutch or springs possibly flying around in vital parts. when it 'did it'(clutch stop working) there was nothing that sounded, looked, or acted out of the ordinary when the clutch just straight up stop working.
thanks for the time guys and gals

 

Yup, burnouts can be hard on ****, esp if you dont know how to do one. You DUMP the clutch, no slipping. You probably fried the clutch. Pull it apart and look at the steels. Are they warped? Burnt? Are the fibers (frictions) broken? You dont want broken fibers floating in your oil, not cool Mav.

 

Like gixxer said, you likely fried your clutch. Luckily, it's an easy $100 fix.

--Chris

 

yea replacing the clutch is eeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaasssssssssyyyyyyyyyyy y. took me 30 min tops

 

your saying to dump the clutch on a stand still burnout??? i was planning on replacing the clutch anyway so it's no biggie. a buddy of mine had jis replaced but had bigger springs put in place of some of the smaller/softer ones, the mechanic said it was so his clutch would last longer, could the same be said for the same setup for doing burnouts and hard luanches?

 

Stiffer springs will do what you would imagine they would do. Put more tension on the friction plates to grab. Yes, that is the proper way to do a burn out. Just make sure you have the power to break it loose or you'll be chasing a bike on it's rear tire. Dont half *** it, if you wanna do a burn out, be serious with it. You can lower the throttle after it's spinning.

 

If you're just starting, try it with some water to practice. Make a tiny puddle with a water bottle. But like what was said earlier, DO IT or don't. No half-assing it.

The difficulty is that you've got to have the brake and the throttle going with the same hand. So just hammer down the front brake while the clutch is in. Roll your palm back to get the throttle up -or- reverse the order and get the throttle going before you lock up the front brake. Then just DUMP the clutch. But keep your hand on it in case the bike tries launching. The bike might jump forward a bit before the rear breaks loose, but no worries. Only freak out if the front launches skyward. Then just start modulating the throttle for however quick you want your burnout to be spinning.

One more thing, don't sit on the bike while you're trying to do this. Keep on your feet. This keeps the bike from being weighted and also gives you more bike control for when the rear starts slipping. The rear might want to move around, and if you're sturdy on your feet then you won't have problems. I stand with my weight towards the rear so I can drag the bike backwards if it's trying to go forward. Like tug o' war.

 

One more thing: testing to see if your clutch is slipping.

You could have just overheated it. The first couple passes down the strip, and the nose will get light or be touch & go on the shifts. But by the end of the night at the track, the front is grounded in all but the 1-2 shift. The next day, it's back to normal.

Get out on the freeway in 6th. You want the highest gear possible to load the clutch with. Open up the throttle and watch the tach. If the tach jumps or moves erratically, or makes a sharp drop once you lift off the throttle, then you have a worthless clutch. If it moves in a linear motion with the speedo, then it might be okay. Good enough for street riding at least. Try adding in some brake while in 6th with the throttle open. This will amplify any slip. If you can maintain a constant speed by using a lot of brake and wide open throttle, and the tach isn't climbing, then you're fine. If the tach is spinning up and the mph is holding the same, then your clutch is shot.

My clutch never went emo and quit life, but it was getting spongy in the end before I replaced it. I got a kevlar Barnett clutch, but I haven't ridden the bike since then, so I can't comment on how it is.

 

He definetely fried the clutch. I did the same thing to mine 2 augusts ago and mine did the same thing. I tried for about two weeks praying that my bike was just mad at me but the clutch never fixed itself. I burnt out he second to last friction plate in the clutch. I decided to change it myself and I'm glad I did. They wanted 75 bucks to find problem plus time to fix it. I paid 165 for complete kevlar barnett clutch including springs and than 15 for the gasket and 30 for oil and I was on my way. Oh yeah 8 bucks for the gasket seal and 12 dollars for loc-tite. After about a week of having the clutch i had the ***** to change the clutch and WOW was it easy. Can't say it took me 30 minutes but that same day she was rideable. Just make sure you at least have the pdf of the repair manual or a repair manual and take pictures because the manual doesn't look as realistic as the thing in real life is. Anyone that can change oil can do it. Clutch was so much crisper afterwards as well!

 

I'd take the advice as far as changing the clutch, as far as getting back to the burnouts. If you realy want to start out simple and risk free, place the front wheel of yout bike against the rear tire of your truck or a brick wall, make you a small puddle and prictice getting the feel for breaking the tire loose. When you feel you have it down pretty well, back away from the wall about 6 inches and try again without "creeping" up to the wall. Once that is masterd try it again without watter and away from the wall. Thats the safest way I could tell you to do it. Good luck. (Picture tip) If you're going to be doing a burnout while posing for a picture a small puddle of bleach produces a good amount of smoke without having to max the tach.