Undertail for 00 F4
#11
Squid - Here are a few links I found for undertails. One is black (could be repainted or left that way depending on your bike scheme) and the 2nd is not painted. I know people with the black style and it looks pretty nice on and has a place to mount the license and relocate the lock.
1. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA...Q5fAccessories
2. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA...Q5fAccessories
I found these by putting "CBR F4 Undertail" in the search field. Hope that helps
1. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA...Q5fAccessories
2. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA...Q5fAccessories
I found these by putting "CBR F4 Undertail" in the search field. Hope that helps
#12
I've since changed my factory banana tail to split-seat but when I still had the orig tail, I did the following basically the same as ford_loomis.
I used thin sheet aluminum from a home improvement store. Used cardboard as a template for mockup after roughly measuring dimensions. This doesn't have to be exact. After cutting & final fitting, I quick sanded the outer surface & spraypainted it black.
I used the two factory tail cowl mounting holes at the same location to secure the new FE...no other bolts/screws necessary. I chose not to reinstall the keylock...instead, I removed the keylock from the cable, cut a slot at the L side, just large enough to pull the cable thru to keep it secure. When I needed under the seat, I simply pulled the cable-end, & my seat unlocked...worked like a charm.
Used a homemade aluminum bracket for the license plate/rear signals...& secured it via self-taping metal screws (I predrilled small holes). I had the bracket on & off the bike for trackdays many times...never a problem, & was solid & secure.
It looked great & was very inexpensive. Really, for this application, there's no need to spend large sums of money for an expensive FE...that is, unless you really want one.
Additionally, I should note that if you want it uber sealed from the elements, you can use weather-stripping at front & rear. I didn't do this b/c I had a good snug fit. I got caught in heavy rain more than once & it never leaked at all.
Here's a couple pics of how mine looked b/f I did the split-seat conversion...
I used thin sheet aluminum from a home improvement store. Used cardboard as a template for mockup after roughly measuring dimensions. This doesn't have to be exact. After cutting & final fitting, I quick sanded the outer surface & spraypainted it black.
I used the two factory tail cowl mounting holes at the same location to secure the new FE...no other bolts/screws necessary. I chose not to reinstall the keylock...instead, I removed the keylock from the cable, cut a slot at the L side, just large enough to pull the cable thru to keep it secure. When I needed under the seat, I simply pulled the cable-end, & my seat unlocked...worked like a charm.
Used a homemade aluminum bracket for the license plate/rear signals...& secured it via self-taping metal screws (I predrilled small holes). I had the bracket on & off the bike for trackdays many times...never a problem, & was solid & secure.
It looked great & was very inexpensive. Really, for this application, there's no need to spend large sums of money for an expensive FE...that is, unless you really want one.
Additionally, I should note that if you want it uber sealed from the elements, you can use weather-stripping at front & rear. I didn't do this b/c I had a good snug fit. I got caught in heavy rain more than once & it never leaked at all.
Here's a couple pics of how mine looked b/f I did the split-seat conversion...
Last edited by gotcbr; 04-30-2009 at 06:18 PM. Reason: pics
#13
P.S. Don't forget to use some sort of license plate light unless you absolutely like your local police stopping you for lack of. I used this inexpensive $10 Motrax plate light from CycleGear. http://www.cyclegear.com/spgm.cfm?L1...&item=MRX_LPL2
I simply drilled a small hole in my FE aluminum at the spot I wanted, used the adhesive tape on the little light, & affixed it to the spot. It works great, weighs basically nothing, & keeps the LEO's from hassling you.
The rear turn signals are the type that mount via the back of the lic plate.
I simply drilled a small hole in my FE aluminum at the spot I wanted, used the adhesive tape on the little light, & affixed it to the spot. It works great, weighs basically nothing, & keeps the LEO's from hassling you.
The rear turn signals are the type that mount via the back of the lic plate.
#16
Sorry guys, didn't see these responses til now...
Like I said, I removed the keylock BUT I kept the cable. The cable has a thick metal nub of sorts at the end that used to fit into the lock itself. This nub portrudes thru that very small cutout in the sheet metal on the L side. Its hardly noticeable unless you really look hard for it. Anyway, to get under the seat, just pull the nub...& viola, the seat unlocks just like it did b/f...except that instead of using a key to manipulate the lock, the cable is actually pulled.
Hope this helped.
Like I said, I removed the keylock BUT I kept the cable. The cable has a thick metal nub of sorts at the end that used to fit into the lock itself. This nub portrudes thru that very small cutout in the sheet metal on the L side. Its hardly noticeable unless you really look hard for it. Anyway, to get under the seat, just pull the nub...& viola, the seat unlocks just like it did b/f...except that instead of using a key to manipulate the lock, the cable is actually pulled.
Hope this helped.
#18
i just was looking at pimpbikes.com and they have an undertail for my 99f4 for 50$ or sumthin!!! i have no info on them but it made me think twice about my elaborite d.i.y. plans...
try em an tell me!
besides scuffing the surface you need to remove and oil residue as well as particulate from the abrasives step!!
this is IMPORTANT TO ANY PAINT WORK!!
i didnt know this untill recently and my paintjobs are finly working out.
the forming process for metalstock uses oily agents to help the shaping along and protect the tools that make those sheets flat. and then its left there
1- to help protect metals in shipping and storage untill use
&2- because it an arsepain to remove.
(can be anyway)
i use isopropl alc. or, more better tuffer badasser,- Acetone and just wipe the surface clean
then youve got a paintjob worthy of your noble homemade steed.
try em an tell me!
besides scuffing the surface you need to remove and oil residue as well as particulate from the abrasives step!!
this is IMPORTANT TO ANY PAINT WORK!!
i didnt know this untill recently and my paintjobs are finly working out.
the forming process for metalstock uses oily agents to help the shaping along and protect the tools that make those sheets flat. and then its left there
1- to help protect metals in shipping and storage untill use
&2- because it an arsepain to remove.
(can be anyway)
i use isopropl alc. or, more better tuffer badasser,- Acetone and just wipe the surface clean
then youve got a paintjob worthy of your noble homemade steed.
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