Undertail for 00 F4
#1
Undertail for 00 F4
Anyone know where I can get a reasonably priced undertail for my F4, preferably already painted the stock sunrise yellow? I've looked on ebay, found several that are not painted for around $200. Bit more that I want to pay if I have to have someone color match and paint it.
Also, if you toss an undertail on your bike, is a wheel hugger a must?
Also, if you toss an undertail on your bike, is a wheel hugger a must?
#4
#5
I used aluminum ducting and sheers. The shape is very simple for the undertail itself. First I cut the plastic fender until it was flush with the back plastic. Then I got a pattern and started cutting it down to size. I used an old for sale sign for the pattern since it was thick and easy to cut. Once the pattern was the right size I traced it onto the Aluminum and cut it with tin snips. Then I drilled holes for the license plate hanger and made a license plate bracket out of the same aluminum. Though I need to make a new license plate bracket because it is to thin of aluminum. I also dremeled out a place for the license plate light built into my tail light. I have a smoke LED tail light. The undertail is held on by sliding the rounded edge into the lip on the taillight and two self tapping screws on the opposite edge that go into the undertray. I also painted it black with truck bed liner. I would recommend scuffing it with sand paper first though. Pictures coming soon when I figure out how to post them.
#7
Side note I was at a Heating and cooling place not to long ago, where they make all the ducting and crap and they had every tool you could think of to play with aluminum. They also had thicker pieces of Aluminum I'm guessing if you made your pattern they could cut the thicker aluminum and make the bend for you. I thought about going this aproach after I built mine but I've used it for over a year now with no issues. And if you can find a thicker sheet of aluminum than that found in ducting I would use that.
#8
Ford - You wouldn't have the dimensions for the cut would you? Im also taking this route but Im having issues getting the cuts right. It ends up either too big or too loose to the point where the tail light isn't secured all the way.
On another note, Im using 12g sheets and it seems to be sturdy enough. My idea is to also replace the lock there too. What I have learned is that you definitely need to scuff the aluminum if you are going to repaint otherwise it won't stick.
Squidman - I've found several undertails online for way cheaper than $200, look a bit more. They come in the option of keeping the regular tail light or some have the split lights that are built in. I saw a painted undertail for only $69
On another note, Im using 12g sheets and it seems to be sturdy enough. My idea is to also replace the lock there too. What I have learned is that you definitely need to scuff the aluminum if you are going to repaint otherwise it won't stick.
Squidman - I've found several undertails online for way cheaper than $200, look a bit more. They come in the option of keeping the regular tail light or some have the split lights that are built in. I saw a painted undertail for only $69
Last edited by celMNrider; 04-24-2009 at 11:10 PM.
#9
#10
I don't have any specific dimensions. I used my pattern, the for sale sign, and just kept trimming it till it fit nice and snug into the tail light. Once it fit the tail light I just made sure it was wide enough to go under the plastic. The sides give you a lot of room for error. When I installed it I snugged it up against the tail light and used the self tapping screws because they go into the plastic anywhere you like.
It's a pretty solid setup, there is a little rattle with the license plate but I need to replace that anyway. If I really got board I could just remake the whole thing out of a thicker aluminum.
It's a pretty solid setup, there is a little rattle with the license plate but I need to replace that anyway. If I really got board I could just remake the whole thing out of a thicker aluminum.