Stalling when Hot Issues Continue!
#52
#54
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
My issue is still apparent. Did it again last night on my way home. Not as bad as it did when my connector was melted. I'm still getting great voltage at the battery, so I'm gonna have to tear into the harness again once my civic gets back from my buddy who's borrowing it. I still think I'm not getting enough current to the coils/fuel pump circuit cause it's dropping voltage bad when the pump kicks on. But doesn't drop voltage when I jumper the circuit to the battery. Ugh, this is annoying. lol
#55
#56
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Alright, I dug into the wiring and capped off the 2 running lights wires in the front under the gauges which made all my signals just signals. Even the signal indicators in the gauge cluster are not lit. This also enabled me to finally wire up my integrated led tail light and have it work, except for the fast blinking, but I don't really mind that. Eliminating the running lights and having integrated rear signals seems to have helped my issue.
I verified that the running lights were drawing just enough power to affect the electrical system to bring about the issue. I did this by simply pulling the bulbs out and letting the bike idle and the fan come on a few times; with the bulbs removed the bike ran good, only bogged down just a little when the fan came on but not enough to shut the bike down.
The 2 wires I capped off were orange/white stripe & brown dots for the left signals. Light blue/white stripe & brown dots for the right signals.
I am still convinced that doing this has enabled me to ride my motorcycle but is a band aid for an aging/failing stator.
I verified that the running lights were drawing just enough power to affect the electrical system to bring about the issue. I did this by simply pulling the bulbs out and letting the bike idle and the fan come on a few times; with the bulbs removed the bike ran good, only bogged down just a little when the fan came on but not enough to shut the bike down.
The 2 wires I capped off were orange/white stripe & brown dots for the left signals. Light blue/white stripe & brown dots for the right signals.
I am still convinced that doing this has enabled me to ride my motorcycle but is a band aid for an aging/failing stator.
Last edited by dirtyhall; 07-12-2011 at 12:36 AM.
#57
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 1,641
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
1 Post
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
BigMatt: is your issue still gone? Curious
Dirtyhall: I don't understand why your signal lights on the dash don't work. I'm thinking of swapping out the OEM front signals on mine for a set of hit bodies.. Eliminating the running lights and that's that.. But I havent read of anyone losing the dash lights before.
Dirtyhall: I don't understand why your signal lights on the dash don't work. I'm thinking of swapping out the OEM front signals on mine for a set of hit bodies.. Eliminating the running lights and that's that.. But I havent read of anyone losing the dash lights before.
#58
#60
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Now they are just turn signals, before they were running lights and the signal indicators were on with the running lights.
When I bought the bike it had the running light wires hanging there but I checked wiring diagrams in my Clymers and it showed them going to the signals so I hooked 'em back up which made the signals and indicators running lights. Hope that clears things up.
When I bought the bike it had the running light wires hanging there but I checked wiring diagrams in my Clymers and it showed them going to the signals so I hooked 'em back up which made the signals and indicators running lights. Hope that clears things up.