CBR 600F4 1999 - 2000 Honda CBR 600F4 Forum

Stalling when Hot Issues Continue!

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  #51  
Old 07-10-2011, 12:58 PM
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Yes, eliminated 2 out of 6 wires. Now its not even a problem with signals, brakes, and the fan on. The signals are not running lights.
 
  #52  
Old 07-10-2011, 05:52 PM
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Eliminated 2 wires? You are meaning the two wires that make the signals running lights correct? These wires are up front under the gauge cluster right? Did you snip them from connecting to the other signal wires and cap them off or?
 
  #53  
Old 07-11-2011, 06:01 AM
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yes those would be the running light wires, I capped nothing off just eliminated them completely.
 
  #54  
Old 07-11-2011, 01:26 PM
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My issue is still apparent. Did it again last night on my way home. Not as bad as it did when my connector was melted. I'm still getting great voltage at the battery, so I'm gonna have to tear into the harness again once my civic gets back from my buddy who's borrowing it. I still think I'm not getting enough current to the coils/fuel pump circuit cause it's dropping voltage bad when the pump kicks on. But doesn't drop voltage when I jumper the circuit to the battery. Ugh, this is annoying. lol
 
  #55  
Old 07-11-2011, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by BiggMatt600f4
yes those would be the running light wires, I capped nothing off just eliminated them completely.
Do you remember the colors? How did you eliminate them exactly?
 
  #56  
Old 07-12-2011, 12:33 AM
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Alright, I dug into the wiring and capped off the 2 running lights wires in the front under the gauges which made all my signals just signals. Even the signal indicators in the gauge cluster are not lit. This also enabled me to finally wire up my integrated led tail light and have it work, except for the fast blinking, but I don't really mind that. Eliminating the running lights and having integrated rear signals seems to have helped my issue.

I verified that the running lights were drawing just enough power to affect the electrical system to bring about the issue. I did this by simply pulling the bulbs out and letting the bike idle and the fan come on a few times; with the bulbs removed the bike ran good, only bogged down just a little when the fan came on but not enough to shut the bike down.

The 2 wires I capped off were orange/white stripe & brown dots for the left signals. Light blue/white stripe & brown dots for the right signals.

I am still convinced that doing this has enabled me to ride my motorcycle but is a band aid for an aging/failing stator.
 

Last edited by dirtyhall; 07-12-2011 at 12:36 AM.
  #57  
Old 07-15-2011, 06:49 AM
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BigMatt: is your issue still gone? Curious

Dirtyhall: I don't understand why your signal lights on the dash don't work. I'm thinking of swapping out the OEM front signals on mine for a set of hit bodies.. Eliminating the running lights and that's that.. But I havent read of anyone losing the dash lights before.
 
  #58  
Old 07-15-2011, 02:12 PM
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Turbulenz: my dash lights work, but since I got rid of my running lights the signal indicators in the gauge cluster are not lit either. They used to be lit just like the running lights but now only come on when a signal is on.
 
  #59  
Old 07-15-2011, 02:14 PM
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so you still have the stock lights, but they are just turn signals and not running lights? I might be confused, but stock, the signal indicators on the dash are only supposed to come on when the signals are flashing... not when they are just acting as running lights..
 
  #60  
Old 07-16-2011, 11:39 AM
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Now they are just turn signals, before they were running lights and the signal indicators were on with the running lights.

When I bought the bike it had the running light wires hanging there but I checked wiring diagrams in my Clymers and it showed them going to the signals so I hooked 'em back up which made the signals and indicators running lights. Hope that clears things up.
 


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