Hi guys may be a stupid question, but should the battery negative terminal be connected to the chassis as in should I have continuity between the negative terminal and the frame? Thanks in advance

 

Yes.
Usually negative battery cable is bolted to engine or frame. Good idea to have addtional cable to bolt to 2nd location as well so they're both connected.

 

Brilliant thanks for that, I've been trying to chase down a problem with charging with the fan on and noticed that the fan earth is going to the frame but I have no continuity from the frame to the negative battery terminal so hopefully by adding a wire to the frame from the battery it will solve my problem

 

If fan is spinning, then it has adequate connection.

You've got problem with stator, RR or wiring in between. Not putting out enough power and when fan turn on, it sucks up more power thab stator+RR can provide. Deficit power comes from battery and drains it.

 

New r/r fitted (mosfet not cheap Chinese one) stator testing all fine outputting correctly, wiring all testing ok no issues only fault I can find is battery negative to frame continuity is not present so looks like maybe a bad ground to me, will update if it solves it.

 

OK so sorted out the ground but problem persists, battery standing voltage is 12.6volts (new battery), with bike running idling voltage is around 14.9 volts (lights off) once bike is warmed up and fan has come on the 2nd or 3rd time lights start dimming if on, neutral light starts to flicker like crazy until eventually the only way to run it is with the lights off. Neutral light goes off completely and flickers back on when revving high but with the multimeter on the battery with fan off it is reading around 13_14.5 volts with the fan on though it does drop to around 12.4-12.8 volts. Question is do you think the problem is that the stator can't keep up at idle with the fan on or do you think the new battery cant handle the load? I'm sick of throwing money at the bloody thing now so all help appreciated thanks

 

From the owners manual new battery fully charged should be between 13 and 13.2v not 12.6 as yours is, Stator output should be checked at 5k revs with the lights on and be less than 15.5v.
If these measurements are correct then it suggests that your battery is not holding charge well enough which is your problem.
The only other thing it could be is the fan motor drawing way too much power.

 

I also have the manual and I read that it should be between 13 and 13.3v but everywhere else I have read says 12.6v is standard. Would you or anyone else mind measuring your standing battery voltage and let me know what yours is? I've bought a load tester to try on the battery that should be here tomorrow so hopefully that will tell me more conclusively whether the battery is fine

 

Measure battery voltage when fan 1st turns on and monitor every minute until it dies.

Do you know how to measure current? Requires connecting meter in-line with wire so all current goes through it to measure.

It may be possible you have short in fan circuit and it's drawing more than regular amount of fan-only power. Measuring actual current draw when fan turns on would be useful data.

 

as soon as the fan turns on the voltage ( with lights on) starts to drop and sits around 13-13.5 volts on idle but everytime the fan comes on after the first time the voltage is lower than last time until it ends up sitting around 12.4 to 13.4 volts roughly but sits on the lower end whilst fan is on. Whilst idling no fan on amps drawn are 0.1, with fan on that goes up to 0.5 amps, with revs at around 5000rpm current draw is around 2 amps.