The procedure for removal/installation of your forks/fork tubes is available in the factory Honda service manual. If you don't have it, there are links here on the forum to the online PDF. It is not rocket-science & anyone can do it by following proper procedures outlined in the manual.

The fork tubes are supposed to extend from the upper triple such that the stop-rings are a few mm above the clip-ons (handlebar brackets). See the manual for exact measurement.

To do work on the forks, you can use a front stand that lifts from the lower triple, use an auto jack under the headers, use rafter-straps, auto engine hoist, etc. Personally, for fork work, I use a front stand that lifts by the lower triple. Here's a thread over in the F4i section where I have pics & lifting methods are discussed...https://cbrforum.com/forum/f4i-main-...-bikes-133565/.

Mainly, after lifting the front of your bike (if using stands, both front & rear need to be on stands), its just a matter of removing your front wheel, loosening pinch bolts on the triples & clip-on bolts, & lowering the fork tubes. This is an excellent time to inspect your fork seals for leakage. While you can lower the forks(raise triple) w/ the front wheel still on, I would use caution using this method, as there's opportunity for the front end to drop down suddenly on the forks & cause damage.

Nope, not normal.

Bikes do not like tight chains. Proper slack should always be adjusted. This procedure is in the shop manual as well. I adjust on the more-slack side of that measurement. If the chain is too tight, you will certainly experience problems w/ the trans. If the trans is actually worn tho, then you're in for some repair cost.

B/f you do any more riding, adjust your suspension back to factory spec & double-check chain slack.

Try to refrain from downshifting into 1st or 2nd while in the high rpm range. There are rpm ranges to which you should not downshift, causing damage.

It is unfortunate that you didn't get a pre-purchase inspection at a certified Honda shop or even get a chance to test-ride it yourself b/f purchase. IF there is actually a prob w/ the trans, its likely that the seller knew this. Were there any maintenance records included w/ this bike? Best you can do is try to now assess the prob & hope that expensive repairs aren't necessary.

Not trying to kick you while you're down but this is why we always recommend that pre-purchase inspection &/or thorough test ride b/f purchase. $85 for the inspection may seem expensive but it will certainly save you on the back end if there is actually a prob.

So, hang in there...do your suspension work, check chain slack again after that, & do any other maintenance that the bike needs. Then, see how things are & go from there. Here's hoping for the best! Good luck.

 

I highly recommend resetting your suspension to factory! I rode my bike for months before i adjusted mine. Its night and day from where I had it again. I love it.

 

Thanks for the info. Upon inspection of my chain (half assed inspection in my poorly lit garage with a flashlight) it seems that I have a little less than an inch chain slack. The chain feels stiff in general and doesn't want to bend very freely. When I touch it it is very sticky like the oil on it feels thick and sticky kinda like if you touched some old engine that has dried up leaked oil on it. Could this be my issue? I sure hope so. Tomorrow or Friday when I'm off I'm going to scrub it clean, loosen it a bit and hit it with some fresh chain wax and see if that fixes it or makes a difference. Or maybe I should just order a new chain and sprocket kit. I just don't really want to spend the cash on that if there is a larger problem.

 

There's a Honda shop within 5 miles of my house. If my chain maintenance doesn't work I will probably take it there for inspection.