If you look up how to use seafoam, it can save you alot of money on carb cleaning. And how long is the shop going to take to inspect your bike? I read most everwhere they inspect it very quickly if I'm not mistaken. I'm going to get mine done sometime this week I hope. Maybe tomorrow actually to get my title transferred so I can get plates for my bike.

If you have the money, look up MSF courses and try to take it at Awesome cycles. I learned so much from them the last few days, its made me super confident to ride in traffic and public knowing I can take turns with a significantly higher rate of success rate than before. I think if you tell you have a motohouston(.com) user you can get it for 160 instead of 190something. Just a heads up if you haven't gotten your class M yet! Be safe out there Mike.

 

I forgot about seafoam. I've used it plenty of time for cars. The inspection shouldn't take too long at all but since there is a bike rally in ocean city, md this weekend, there are several customers in line ahead of me having their bikes serviced. They are also putting my new tires on so that my have an effect as well.

I took riders edge at a harley dealership about two years ago. It is how I got my license when I was back in GA. I just haven't ridden a bike since then. I remember a lot and am taking it easy though.

 

Bad news today. The shop completed the maryland state required inspection and boy am I in for it lol. Here is what he told me over the phone.

1. Steering Stem Bearing is worn and needs replacing
2. Front Brakes have low and slightly colored fluid - needs flushing with new fluid
3. Front Brakes do not light up brake lights
4. Front Turn signals are not DOT approved (flush mounts)
5. Rear fender has been removed
6. No Tag light (b/c no fender)
7. No side reflectors front or rear (rear b/c no fender, fronts removed)
8. Wind Screen not DOT approved (he said I can pass simply by just removing it)
9. Passenger Hand hold not present
10. Head Light not DOT approved (HID kit)

So yeah that seems to be a lot. Most of them can be solved by getting original turn signals and complete OEM undertail unit complete with lights. Then switch to a normal H4 headlight and flush the brake fluid. Then I would need the front reflectors and take off the wind screen. These all seem like something I could do assuming I have the parts in my hand. The steering stem bearing however sounds fairly involved. I will check the oem repair manual to find out.

I has a sad now Now it will be much longer until I get plates. I was optimistically hoping to be ready this weekend.

Finally, does anyone have a complete original oem undertail/rear fender for sale?

Thanks,
Sad Mike

 

Yes, it certainly does seem like a lot & very picky. My question is: Do all of these issues HAVE TO be corrected or are these recommendations by the shop?

Nevertheless, let's get started...
(Just follow the factory service manual procedures for these maint items.)

1. This is a fairly simple process & you can do it.
2. Flushing brake fluid is fairly easy.
3. Check wiring.
4. Temporarily install stalk-mount/oem type lights.
5. A temp install of the complete oem battery tray will work.
6. Install a stick-on & wire it up.
7. Most automotive stores have stick-on reflectors...get 'em & stick 'em on.
8. Then just remove it, 'nuf said. ;-)
9. The F4 had NO passenger "hand-hold" other than a strap on the back of the seat.
10. Swap out to oem type bulb for inspection, done.

 

Get with boyo he's I'm md and can help hopefully. But if you have jack stands than the steering head should be pretty easy.

 

Alright well I picked it up from the shop and got a few things from the parts department while I was there.

Picked up the front and rear reflectors and front turn signals, all of which are DOT approved. Ill get this tag light from autozone. I can do all of those fairly quickly as well as remove the wind screen once I get a set of metric hex keys. That takes care of #'s 4,6, 7, and 8.

For the passenger hand hold, they are referring to the strap on the seat. My bike does not have it so the guy even mentioned that I can use a piece of a truck strap which I happen to already have and just make sure I secure it well. Haven't figured out how to secure it yet. There isn't really anything on the underside of the seat to connect it to. That takes care of # 9

The next chunk will be removing the HID kit and putting a regular halogen H4 bulb in. At the same time I will have to look and see why the front brakes do not light up the tail light and also why the left front turn signal does not light. Unfortunately I see several wire connections wrapped in electrical tape. I bet some of those are bad and my guess is they are not soldered. Some of the electrical connectors were cut off and just spliced. To get everything proper, I will be taking the front fairing off and spending some time soldering and crimping connectors to get it all correct. That takes care of #'s 3 and 10.

I have bled brakes on a car before so I don't flushing new fluid being difficult at all. It should be easier since I won't need a second person. That takes care of # 2.

For the rear fender, I was thinking of just getting a piece of sheet metal and bolting it to what is currently left of the "fender." I can mount the rear reflectors and tag light to this as well. The only question remains is that will this suffice to pass inspection. It seems that it would be easier than sourcing and paying for a battery tray that isn't already cut up. Takes care of #5

#1 is the biggest task for me at least. I will be going through the service manual in more detail but at first glance it looks like you need a special tool set to replace the bearings in the steering stem. Does anyone know a way to get around using this special tool set?

Thanks,
Mike

New Michelin Pilot Road 2

 

The original strap is attached via securing the ends under the seat's hook bolts on ea side under the seat.

Bad wiring from PO splicing is often a downside of buying used. We've all pretty much been there. ;-)

Really surprised that the DMV would hassle you about this. Most sportbikes out there don't have their entire shovel extending down from the battery tray.

Hammer & chisel is what most shade-tree mechanics use.

 

Made some progress today. Got brake fluid and rented a bleeding kit. Also ordered a new set of stem bearings and a regular H4 light bulb. I took out the HID kit and thankfully the original wiring harness is still intact. All I have to do is connect and mount the new turn signals and pop in the new head light bulb. I also ordered these nifty guys from ebay. They are license plate bolts with LEDs built in to serve as tag lights.

Perfect. That means I don't need to figure out any mounting hardware. I already cut a piece of an old truck strap down to length. Ill just punch holes in it and bolt it right up.

I'm getting there.

 

That is excellent that the orig wiring is intact...will make your life a little easier anyway w/ the headlight.

I've used the bolt lights b/f. They work pretty well. These are what I have...LED - Lite.

Yep, just take that strap & wrap it over the seat & secure under those hook bolts...done. :-)

 

Some of the electrical connectors on my bike have been cut off and I am on the hunt for as close to oem connectors that I can get. I just found this site which has a lot of bike oriented connectors. Some of these are made by Sumitomo which IIRC make a lot of OEM motorcycle electrical connectors.