Hey hondaowner, you are correct, I went back and looked through both the service and clymer manuals and both state that you are correct. I removed the direct air induction system from my bike awhile ago so I had use an image from another member once I find another photo that has the hoses routed correctly I will do the same. The routing I have displayed would be for a CA model and I stated that that was for a 49-State model, I will have to correct that.

 

The gapping and wear condition on spark plugs are ok I just pulled them out.
The carbs are visibly clean now BUT not synched.
I made sure I kept all parts on the same carb when cleaned.
The small pipes near the bottom of the carbs are on the air-box like shown on picture.
As far as valve clearance, I don't hear a consistent click or valve tap. But 4,000rpm is where the bike runs amazing.
Idle is amazing as well but once I get on the road with low rpm's is when I have issues.
I tried to use a tissue over exhaust tip and check if breathes correctly and everything seemed fine. No smoke or anything just seems like it has great compression lol
I also switched the front hoses from the picture like we had discussed and the bike didn't react differently.$

Thanks for your help

 

Well for sure something is missing there. There are no great mysteries over the F4 actually is quite simple. The difficulty is being build with clockwork precision, anything out of place will shake it. The cloth/tissue or even your hand thing: If valves are not ok, on the intake side you won't notice it much (engines always produce a little noise, on the exhaust side you won't hear a thing if they are tight. The only thing that'll happen is the combustion chamber will be open, slightly, (on exhaust side)- when that happens exhaust gases are pulled back the tissue will almost be sucked inside and back out again as the engine is running- and ignition will be reduced at idle and low rpm range (unloaded engine rpm- random misfire on any cylinder maybe #3, #2 whatever because the chambers aren't always totally closed=no fire). I would show you how that looks like because my bike is waaaaay pass valve clearance and I'm having that problem (hopefully I'm praying for no exhaust valves burned)but I'm kind of a moron on internet things like uploading stuff for instance. Main thing is there's something you are missing, just have to be patient and go step by step rechecking...

 

have you tried running with a near full tank of gas and bypassing the fuel pump? I wonder if there is possibly a fuel starvation issue?

 

I can imagine how simple the fix can be :/
As of now I have a full tank and no fuel pump. Its a direct gravity feed. The bike runs strong at high revs ,so I'm assuming the fuel is getting to the carbs.
When I started the bike this morning it backfired at startup like a single 9mm gunshot that scared the **** out of me. When I rode it to work I accelerated hard and it backfired while shifting onto the next gear a couple of times (not every time). It will not do that when I'm just cruisin'.
I will park it for now and get it fixed before I do some major damage.

How important is the vacuum sync? symptoms?
I've talked to a couple local mechanics and they want to charge $100-$150 for the labor. After all the work that I've done with the motor swap, I've came too close to pay them but I probably should go that route. lol

Tomorrow I'll take the filters out and see how it runs for ****s and giggles.

 

A jumpy tach needle/rough idle, slow to respond, and overall poor performance are three major signs that your carbs need to be synced, with the gauges and a screw driver it take less time to sync them than it does to get to the carbs. I think a carb sync will help you get closer however I don't think it will solve your backfiring issues. Can you check your engine compression, ensure that your ignition coils are in the correct order, check if you have strong spark at all four plugs. Ensure that your carbs are jetted correctly and that your ignition timing is correct, lastly a mechanics stethoscope or a piece of tubing can be used to poke around the engine to isolate noises or possible leaks that may be causing the issue. Does the bike reach the correct temps and is your oil level set right? Lastly are you using the correct and quality spark plugs and can you describe how you went about cleaning your carbs? Thanks.

 

Thanks for putting me to work CJ.
I started a compression test today and my results were:
cyl 4 @155psi, cyl 3 @155psi, cyl2 @160psi, cyl1 @145psi
The spark plugs I'm using are new NGK-R CR9EH/9
I also bought a mechanic's stethoscope and didn't hear anything abnormal while listening to ignition coils, vaccume lines, and the valves on the head. What I did notice is that the temp rises pretty quick and my fans turn on every 2min. When I'm on the road it's fine unless im riding really slow.I live in the southwest so coolant is a must.
When I cleaned my carbs, I followed the steps to a forum that is on here. I cleaned one at a time and sprayed carb cleaner in them. They looked new when I opened them up but I still went ahead and sprayed them.
My ignition coils are number tagged from 1-4 starting at the clutch side ,and last but not least, oil level is on the line with the kick stand.

I will need to check ignition timing ,spark, and the jets on the carbs next.

I'm glad I'm learning all this about my bike and I really do appreciate your time.

 

Carb Sync. Not synched carbs turn into vibration and at extreme unbalance, poor performance. To each cilindre there's a carb so you have to think of it as four 'single cilindre engines' running at the same time if they aren't balanced you'll have some cilindres running faster/slower than the others(the faster are stopped by the slower ones). - Backfire is explained by unburnet fuel mixture that ignites inside the exhaust. One thing that 'benefits' backfiring (often comes with a bonus pack -overheating- doesn't mean having your temp needle up there on the red zone; having your legs unconfortably hot from the air coming from the radiator and engine) is a too lean mixture, the air inside the engine gets so hot it detonates the mixture, partly without use of spark, mostly when it gets through the exhaust pipe...

 

I was about to synchronize my carbs on the new motor and I grabbed my old carbs from my old motor. I noticed that my new carbs does not have this line on it.



I'm not sure what goes where now.
I have a T connecting the carb sync, to the air box, to that valve on the motors head shown on the last picture.



I will be taking the carbs off right now after breakfast

 

I read your carb-cleaning procedure. I wonder if your main or pilot jets are clogged? They can be clogged without you visually recognizing that fact.

If I cleaned the carbs, I'd replace the jets with new ones just to be on the safe side.