idle problem
#1
idle problem
I finally got my bike running. The problem I have now is when I sit my air box on the carbs the bike shuts off. I've tried setting the idle throttle higher but it will still shut off. I am 100% sure the carbs, airbox, and fuel filter are clean. What else should I check. This bike was not running when I bought it.
Another thing I want to add is when I have the airbox off it runs pretty strong and I can even accelerate.
Another thing I want to add is when I have the airbox off it runs pretty strong and I can even accelerate.
#4
#5
Thanks for the pictures. I made sure all lines were in the correct positions and now the bike starts with the airbox on. The issue I have now is that I need to have the choke on in order for it to stay on. Once I accelerate it shuts off. Should I pull out the spark plugs or what would be my next step?
I also want to add that the bike starts immediately.
I also want to add that the bike starts immediately.
#6
#8
About that routing...
The hoses on the solenoid valve are not properly fitted. Mine where also in the same position as illustrated when I bought my bike... Long story made short, on the left side of the valve the hoses are reversed; the hose coming from the air ducts(outside air) is connected to the lower left pipe of the valve and the hose coming from the air filter box connects to the upper left pipe of the valve. If you have them connected as in the picture, lift up the tank reverse them and go for a quick ride in a few minutes you'll notice the difference. Why are they connected the wrong in my case, I assume Japanese make everything to fit in perfection and if you change spark without removing the radiator you'll disconnect those hoses and while unscrewing the plugs you might slightly bend the valve holder and the air box hose will look out of place (too short to reach the upper pipe). Sorry the bad English.
#9
So I'm still fighting with this problem. I now notice that the choke needs to be ON for the bike to run. It runs decent with choke ON at higher rpms but bogs downs on low rpms.
I've made sure that all carbs are clean, all spark plugs are clean, vacuum lines have been changed to the correct position, air and fuel filter is clean. I'm out of ideas. Any help would be appreciated.
Another thing I want to note is while I am riding the bike jerks and feels like it runs on 3cyl then 4cyl.When I accelerate it picks up and goes quick! Then at cruise no matter how fast I'm going it feels like ****
Thanks in advance
I've made sure that all carbs are clean, all spark plugs are clean, vacuum lines have been changed to the correct position, air and fuel filter is clean. I'm out of ideas. Any help would be appreciated.
Another thing I want to note is while I am riding the bike jerks and feels like it runs on 3cyl then 4cyl.When I accelerate it picks up and goes quick! Then at cruise no matter how fast I'm going it feels like ****
Thanks in advance
#10
Idle problem
Considering the spark plug are ok (gapping and wear condition), the carbs are clean (properly vacuum synched, and correct set of pilot screw in case you removed them to clean) fuel goes into carbs with no restriction, everything should be ok.. Though I noticed something after I read the whole thread again. The small pipes near the bottom of the carbs 3+1 that connects to a T shaped connector are not supposed to be disconnected (to open air) ever. They are only used to connect to vacuum gauges to perform carb sync. This meaning if you run the engine with one pipe off it will run poorly, with two off almost no/erratic idle, with three if it's rich mixture the engine will seem to be out of timing and four it start and die almost instantaneously(I did forget to connect them when I sync carbs and end up removing tank to reconnect them). If have them to open air close them(in case you have the air box pins broken just get yourself a piece of plastic rod and plug them with it). Apart from all that and though it seems to you describe a vacuum leak symptoms one other and very uncommon thing that might be happening is valve clearance... One way to check is by listening but as you might have read exhaust valves often tighten(at high rpm 4~5000rpm and up you won't notice because compression pushes the valves to close and theses bikes still 'run like cannon bullets') so you have to check exhaust if it releases gas consistently, use a tissue over exhaust tip and check if breathes correctly or sucks in while running- since it doesn't idle you'll have to get it as close to idle as possible).
To the Moderator-> Very sorry for long posts. Writing is like painting a picture and I take a little more time.
To the Moderator-> Very sorry for long posts. Writing is like painting a picture and I take a little more time.